600+ Types of Flowers A To Z (With Names and Pictures)
Types Of Flowers By Names (A-Z) Types Of Flowers By Color Types Of Flowers By Season Types Of Flowers By Blooming Time 600+ Types of Flowers No. Flower Name No.…
The Lilium pumilum is a perennial herbaceous plant belonging to the genus Lilium in the Liliaceae family. Its bulbs are ovoid or conical, with white, elongated oval or elongated ovate scales.
Leaves are scattered around the middle of the stem, linear, with papillate margins. Flowers are solitary or cluster into racemes, featuring vivid red petals that often lack spots and curl backwards at the edges, with papillae on either side of the nectary.
The fruit is an elongated capsule. Coral Lilies bloom in July and August, with fruiting occurring from September to October.
Coral Lilies are native to China and also found in Russia, North Korea, and Mongolia. They thrive in mild and moist climates, are cold-hardy, drought-resistant, light-salt tolerant, and prefer organically rich, loose, fertile, well-drained slightly acidic soil or sandy loam.
They grow on mountain slopes and forest edges at altitudes ranging from 400 to 2600 meters. According to the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, the Coral Lily is classified as Least Concern (LC). Common propagation methods include bulb division and scale cuttings.
This plant is aesthetically pleasing with its bright and lively flowers, making it suitable for group planting under trees in courtyards, forest edges, or slopes, as well as for lining flower beds or scattering in the center of beds.
It can also be potted on windowsills or placed in studies to add an elegant touch to the room. Additionally, the bulbs contain a substantial amount of starch, protein, inorganic salts, and are beneficial as a dietary supplement, often used to color flour-based foods.
The Coral Lily’s essential oils can also be extracted for use in fragrances. Its flower language represents “persistence in struggle” and is seen as a symbol of beauty and happiness.
The bulb is ovoid or conical, measuring 2.5-4.5 cm in height and 2-3 cm in diameter, with white, rectangular-oval or elongated ovate scales 2-3.5 cm long and 1-1.5 cm wide.
The stem, reaching 15-60 cm in height, has small papillate protrusions, some with purple stripes. Leaves are dispersed around the middle of the stem, strap-shaped, 3.5-9 cm long and 1.5-3 mm wide, with a prominent midvein on the underside and papillate margins.
Flowers are either solitary or arranged in racemes, bright red, usually spotless, with a few spots occasionally, and pendant.
The tepals curve backwards, measuring 4-4.5 cm long and 0.8-1.1 cm wide, with papillae on either side of the nectary. The filaments are 1.2-2.5 cm long and glabrous, with oblong anthers about 1 cm long, yellow, and nearly red pollen.
The ovary is cylindrical, 0.8-1 cm long, with a style slightly longer than the ovary or more than twice its length, 1.2-1.6 cm long, with an enlarged stigma, 5 mm in diameter, trifid.
The capsule is rectangular-oval, 2 cm long, and 1.2-1.8 cm wide. The flowering period is from July to August and the fruiting period from September to October.
Coral Lilies grow on mountain slopes and forest edges at altitudes of 400-2600 meters. They are cold-hardy, prefer full sunlight to partial shade, and thrive in slightly acidic soil, avoiding heavy clay.
Their indigenous climate is cool and moist, with soft light and little to no direct sunlight. The soil in their native habitat is fertile, loose, well-aerated, with a soil depth of 20-40 cm.
The Coral Lily is distributed in North Korea, Mongolia, Russia, and China.
The Coral Lily’s underground part is a small bulb, usually sprouting new shoots in the spring which grow rapidly. It flowers in the summer, with a natural blooming period of July to August.
After blooming in the autumn, the aboveground parts gradually wither, and the plant enters dormancy in the winter.
Propagation of this species commonly involves division and bulb scale cuttings.
Bulbs that are 2-3 years old develop many small bulbils around them. During the dormant period in autumn, these can be dug up, divided, and planted to grow into new plants.
Select fertile, sandy loam soil with a thick layer, and use well-rotted organic fertilizer as a base before deep plowing and preparing the beds. The beds should be 1.0-1.5 meters wide and of variable length depending on the specific circumstances.
Planting depth should be around 20 centimeters, with rows spaced 20-30 centimeters apart and a plant spacing of about 10 centimeters.
Water the plants immediately after planting. The following spring, as the young seedlings emerge, keep the ground moist. Blooms can be expected around July-August.
Choose vigorous and lush bulbs as the propagation source for the plant. After digging them up, clean the bulbs and peel off the outermost shriveled scales.
Then, cut the middle part of the bulb scales with a small portion of the basal plate attached using a blade. Insert the cut scales at an angle into a medium of vermiculite and perlite, maintaining a room temperature of 20-25°C.
Within 2 weeks, small nodules should become visible at the base of the scales, and within 3-4 weeks, several fleshy roots should grow from the base of the bulb. After 1 month, new bulbils will sprout, eventually growing into a new plant.
Sow seeds in April-May. The sowing soil can be made from a mix of one part leaf mold to one part river sand. Before sowing, soak the seeds in 60°C warm water.
After sowing, place the pots in a greenhouse environment at 20-24°C, and maintain moderate soil moisture. Seedlings should appear after about 2 weeks. Once they emerge, transfer them to small pots for further care.
Wash the bulbs collected from the mountain with soapy water, disinfect them with 70% alcohol for 30 minutes, then surface-sterilize in a bleach solution for 20 minutes.
Rinse thoroughly with sterile water and absorb surface moisture with sterile paper. Cut the disinfected scales into 0.5 cm square pieces and inoculate them onto MS medium enhanced with 2.0 mg of 6-BA per liter.
After 3 weeks, calluses should form, and after 6 weeks, a large number of small bulbils should develop on each scale piece. Transfer these induced bulbils to new bottles to strengthen and root them.
After about 4 weeks, they can be removed from the bottles. Before transplanting, they should undergo about two weeks of low-temperature treatment, and after transplanting, the bottle seedlings should grow well.
For field planting, choose deep, loose, elevated, well-drained humus loamy soils; in mountainous areas, opt for semi-shaded slopes under sparse forests or gentle slopes (below 25°). Before planting, deeply till the soil to a depth of 25 centimeters.
As part of the soil preparation, apply 2500 kilograms of well-rotted manure or compost, 25 kilograms of superphosphate, 10 kilograms of compound fertilizer, and 0.6 kilograms of 50% di-isononyl phthalate per acre to disinfect the soil.
Level the soil finely and make raised beds 1.2 meters wide with 30 centimeters between the furrows. Dig drainage ditches around the edge of the planting area.
For smaller planting areas, use wooden boxes, flower trays, waterlogged-free field edges, or gaps in forests, ensuring the humus soil layer is over 25 centimeters thick.
Autumn is the preferable season for planting, with operations in Shandong around late September; in spring, plant as soon as the soil thaws.
Before planting, select small bulbils that are tightly enveloped by scales, white, well-shaped, and free of damage or pests. Soak them in a 0.2% potassium permanganate solution for 30 minutes, then rinse with clean water and dry before sowing.
On a well-prepared bed, dig trenches with a row spacing of 20 centimeters and a depth of about 10 centimeters, with a plant spacing of 10 centimeters.
Plant the bulbils with their tips pointing upwards, avoiding direct contact with manure to prevent rotting.
The covering soil should be about three times the height of the bulbils; too shallow can cause the bulbils to crack and is not conducive to the formation and development of the upper roots. Then cover with a layer of fallen leaves or straw mats to retain moisture, pressing down with twigs.
In areas where it is possible, cover with 2 centimeters of sawdust to effectively prevent weed growth, conserve moisture, and regulate soil temperature, benefiting the growth and development of the bulbils.
Weeding and Fertilizing
During the growing season, remove weeds in a timely manner. Do not weed too frequently and perform shallow hoeing to avoid damaging the bulbs.
For smaller planting areas, it is best to hand-pull the weeds. After the second year of planting, combine weeding with soil cultivation and fertilization.
The first top-dressing should be in early June, applying 10 kilograms of compound fertilizer per acre, 20 kilograms of superphosphate, and mixed with 1000 kilograms of compost.
The second application is in mid-July, with 10 kilograms of compound fertilizer, 20 kilograms of superphosphate, and 2000 kilograms of human and animal liquid manure per acre.
Fertilize in the trenches between rows and cover with soil after fertilization. Avoid direct contact between fertilizer and bulbs to prevent rot.
Bud Removal
If the main goal is bulb production, remove the flower buds during the bud stage in June-July to reduce nutrient consumption. This practice benefits bulb yield and promotes the formation of bulblets, expanding the propagation material.
Watering and Drainage
The plant is intolerant of waterlogging. During the hot, rainy summer season and after heavy rains, if the soil is too moist and poorly aerated, diseases can occur, necessitating timely drainage.
During drought, water promptly. Using micro-sprinklers or drip irrigation not only saves water but also increases yield.
Affected leaves display circular, oval, or strip-shaped lesions that are white and slightly sunken. With the formation of conidia, the lesions turn dark brown or black, and in severe cases, the entire leaf withers and dies.
When the stem is infected, it becomes weak, thin, and in serious cases, the seedling dies.
Control methods include strengthening management, timely drainage to reduce humidity, maintaining ventilation and light penetration, and enhancing the plant’s disease resistance; use disease-free bulbs for planting.
Before planting, disinfect the bulbs with 2% formalin or 0.2% potassium permanganate solution; promptly remove any diseased spots to prevent spread, and if necessary, spray with a 1:100 Bordeaux mixture or a 500 times diluted solution of 65% zinc dimethoate, applying once every seven days for a total of 3-4 times.
Aphids usually occur in late spring and early summer, affecting plant stems and leaves. They not only inhibit the growth of Peony, but can also spread diseases. Control aphids with a 4% Dimethoate EC diluted to 1000 times.
The Peony’s red, delicate flowers and bell-shaped blossoms are compact and highly appealing. Potted and placed on desks or windowsills, they enhance indoor environments.
They can also be directly planted in gardens or used as natural-style lawn decorations, scattered in grassy woodland areas to add a local characteristic to urban gardens, greatly enhancing their ornamental charm.
With large, beautiful blooms, clear and vivid colors, and rich fragrance, Peonies are ideally suited for courtyards.
They are excellent materials for flower baskets, bouquets, and arrangements and are considered one of the world’s most precious flowers, significantly enhancing living environments.
Additionally, they can be grown in parks, along roadsides, or in squares and play an important role in urban greening and beautification.
Peonies have an attractive form and bright, lively colors. They can be mass-planted under courtyard trees, on forest edges, or slopes, lined around flower beds, or scattered in the center of flower beds.
They are also suitable for potting on windowsills or placing in studies to add elegance, and they serve as excellent cut flower materials.
Peony bulbs are rich in starch and protein, minerals, and have a beneficial nourishing effect, often used to color dough. The volatile oils in Peonies can also be extracted for use in flavorings.
The bulbs are rich in protein, fats, starch, alkaloids, calcium, phosphorus, iron, and other components, making them suitable for soups with good tonic effects.
Peonies not only have high medicinal value but are also highly nutritional. Analysis shows that every 100 grams of fresh lily contains 28.79 grams of carbohydrates, 4 grams of protein, and 1 gram of fat.
Once dried, they contain 21.29% protein, 12.43% fat, 11.47% reducing sugars, and 1.61% starch. Additionally, they contain vitamins B, C, carotene, pantothenic acid, colchicine, and are a suitable food for all ages.
Peonies symbolize a hundred years of harmony, with a pure and sweet taste, and can be prepared in various ways. As early as the Tang Dynasty, lily food was already a high-class tribute to the imperial court.
The bulb, anthers, or seeds of the Peony can be used medicinally to nourish yin and moisten the lungs, clear the mind and calm the spirit; they are used for yin deficiency with a dry cough, fatigue with coughing of blood, restlessness, palpitations, insomnia with frequent dreams, and mental distraction.
The whole Peony plant is valuable, with its bulbs, anthers, and seeds all used for medicinal purposes. Peonies have effects such as moistening the lungs and stopping coughs, nourishing yin and yang, clearing the mind and calming the spirit, and benefiting qi.
They can treat chronic cough due to pulmonary tuberculosis, hemoptysis, restlessness, palpitations, mental distraction, beriberi, and edema.
Common prescriptions include honey-fried lily, lily and fragrant rice porridge, lily and codonopsis soup with pork lung, and lily soup with chicken eggs.
Clinical formulas include lily and anemarrhena soup, lily and rehmannia soup, smooth lily not scattered, lily and wild jujube soup, lily and yellow lead clay, lily powder, and lily juice.
The Peony is listed as Least Concern (LC) on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.
The fiery blaze of the Peony, with its symbolism of beauty, passion, and pursuit, stands for “perseverance in struggle” and is seen as a symbol of beauty and happiness.
Peggie was once a high school mathematics teacher, but she set aside her chalkboard and textbooks to follow her lifelong passion for flowers. After years of dedication and learning, she not only established a thriving flower shop but also founded this blog, “Flowers Library”. If you have any questions or wish to learn more about flowers, feel free to contact Peggie.
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