600+ Types of Flowers A To Z (With Names and Pictures)
Types Of Flowers By Names (A-Z) Types Of Flowers By Color Types Of Flowers By Season Types Of Flowers By Blooming Time 600+ Types of Flowers No. Flower Name No.…
The Dendrobium aphyllum, a perennial epiphytic herb from the Orchidaceae family, features drooping, slender cylindrical stems.
Its leaves are papery, lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate, with a papery sheath encasing the stem at the base. The sepals and petals are white, with the upper parts displaying light purplish-red or pink hues.
The petals are elliptical with purplish-red stripes on the sides at the base, transitioning to pale yellow at the top and light pink at the bottom, and are finely toothed and densely hairy on both sides.
The flowering period is March to April, with the fruiting period from June to July. Named for its rock-clinging nature, large flowers, and pale yellow labellum, the stem is claw-like with a scoop-like appearance resembling a measure.
Dendrobium aphyllum is distributed in China and is also found in the Indochina Peninsula, Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan, India, and Malaysia.
It thrives in warm, moist, and shaded environments, ideally growing on moss-covered cliff crevices or on the trees of the Pinus massoniana. Propagation of Dendrobium aphyllum is through cuttings and division.
Dendrobium aphyllum is known for its health benefits, including nourishing yin, benefiting the stomach, generating fluids to quench thirst, and clearing heat.
Additionally, with its unique flower shape and vibrant colors, and trumpet-shaped labellum, it is highly valued for ornamental purposes.
Named for its affinity for growing on rocks, it features large flowers, a pale yellow labellum, and a short, claw-like stem that resembles a scoop or a measure.
As a member of the Orchidaceae family, this perennial epiphytic herb has drooping, fleshy, slender cylindrical stems, measuring 30-60 (-90) centimeters in length and 4-7 (-10) millimeters in diameter, with numerous nodes and internodes measuring 2-3.5 centimeters in length.
The papery leaves are lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate, with a papery sheath at the base encircling the stem, alternately arranged in two rows along the entire stem, each leaf measuring 6-8 centimeters in length and 2-3 centimeters in width, tapering to a point at the tip; when dried, they turn pale and the sheaths open cup-like.
The sepals and petals are white, with light purplish-red or pink at the upper parts, the petals elliptical, with purplish-red stripes at the base, pale yellow above, and light pink below, with finely toothed edges and densely hairy on both surfaces.
The flowering period is from March to April, with the fruiting period from June to July.
The inflorescence is nearly without a peduncle, with 1-3 flowers clustered together, emerging from leafless or leafy old stems; the peduncle is about 2-5 millimeters long, with 3-4 sheathing bracts at the base; the bracts are membranous, about 2-3 millimeters long; the floral bracts are pale white, membranous, ovate, about 3 millimeters long, with an acute apex; the flower stalk and ovary are dark brown with a green tint, about 2-2.5 centimeters long; the flowers are spreading and drooping; the sepals and petals are white with light purplish-red or occasionally entirely light purplish-red; the median sepal is nearly lanceolate, about 2.3 centimeters long and 5-6 millimeters wide, with an almost acute tip and 5 veins; the lateral sepals are similar to the median one in size, with an acute tip, 5 veins, and a slanted base; the calyx tube is narrowly conical, about 5 millimeters long, with a blunt end.
The petals are elliptical, about 2.3 centimeters long and 9-10 millimeters wide, with a blunt tip, entire margin, and 5 veins; the labellum is broadly ovate or nearly round, about 2.5 centimeters in length and width, with the sides curving upward to enclose the column, forming a trumpet shape, with purplish-red stripes on the sides at the base, narrowing to a short claw, with the upper part pale yellow and the lower part light pink, with uneven fine teeth and densely covered with short soft hairs on both sides; the column is white with red stripes on the front, about 3 millimeters long; the anther cap is white, nearly conical, with a slightly indented tip, densely covered with fine papillae, and with a wide notch at the front edge.
The capsule is narrowly ovate, about 4 centimeters long and 1.2 centimeters thick, with a stalk measuring about 1-1.5 centimeters in length.
This species has a wide distribution and may be a polymorphic species, with frequent variations in flower color and size. It grows on tree trunks in sparse forests or on rocks in mountain valleys at altitudes of 400-1500 meters.
It is found in India, Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim, Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, and Malaysia. The type specimen was collected from India.
The Paphiopedilum orchid is distributed in China and can also be found in the Indochina Peninsula, Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan, India, and Malaysia. It thrives best on moss-covered cliff crevices or on pine trees with multiple grooves in their bark.
The Paphiopedilum orchid favors warm, moist, and shady environments, thriving in subtropical deep forests with annual rainfall exceeding 1000 millimeters and environments that are partially shaded.
The optimal average January temperature is above 8°C, with ideal growth temperatures ranging from 15 to 28 degrees Celsius, and preferred air humidity above 60%.
It is not overly demanding regarding soil fertility and often grows on loose and thick tree bark or trunks in the wild, and sometimes in rock crevices as well.
As an epiphytic plant with aerial roots, it requires substrates that provide good ventilation and water filtration. Under optimal temperature and humidity conditions, it grows rapidly and has a strong survival ability.
In late spring to early summer, the biennial stems sprout flower spikes from the upper nodes, and after blooming, new shoots develop from the base of the stem, entering a dormant period in autumn and winter.
Paphiopedilum orchids are propagated through cuttings and division.
Based on its growth habits, the ideal cultivation site for orchid species should have a partially shaded environment with air humidity above 80%, and wintertime temperatures above 0°C. Controlled artificial environments are also suitable.
The best host trees are those with thick, grooved bark with high water content, such as the Machilus tree, pear tree, and camphor tree, which have thick trunks and abundant foliage.
For rocky terrains, select cool, moist areas where moss and a small amount of humus are present on the rocks.
Select dense, flowering plants. After removing them from their pots, cut from the base of the clumping stems, minimizing root damage.
Sever only the parts that are visibly connected, gently separating the roots by hand without the need for cutting. Group the main plants together and further prune the old roots.
Position the new shoots near the center of the pot, fill with fresh substrate, and firm it down to form a new plant.
For plants over three years old or for Dendrobium stems that have small plants growing at the top or base in the fall, budding propagation can be undertaken.
Select small plants with 3-4 leaves, 2-3 roots, and roots about 4-5 centimeters long. Cut these from the parent plant, treat the cuts with wood ash or 70% mancozeb-zinc, and plant the seedlings in a pot.
It’s important to plant shallowly. After two years of cultivation, the plants typically flower and become marketable.
Propagation by cuttings can be done together with post-blooming repotting and division. The Dendrobium has slender, fleshy stems with many nodes, which can sprout buds, allowing for propagation by cuttings.
Select unflowered and fuller stems, cut them into segments each with 2-3 nodes, and treat the cuts with wood ash or 70% mancozeb-zinc.
Insert the stem segments into a substrate mix of moss and peat, leaving half exposed, and place in a semi-shaded, moist area. Avoid watering for the first week after planting, then regularly mist to maintain moisture and provide some shade.
After 1-2 months, new shoots with 2-3 small roots will form at the nodes, creating new plants. Pot these new plants together with the old stem, and they should flower after 2-3 years of cultivation. The best time for cuttings is from April to August.
Typically, plastic or ceramic pots with porous sides are chosen, utilizing materials such as charcoal roots, peat moss, bark pieces, and charcoal chunks for potting.
Depending on the size of the orchid seedlings, select pots of appropriate sizes, avoiding the use of overly large pots for small seedlings.
The potting materials mentioned should be soaked in clean water for more than a day prior to use. Place large shards of tiles or broken bricks at the bottom of the pot to a depth of about one-third, then position the orchid seedling in the center of the pot.
Secure it with a thin bamboo stake and fill with the remaining cultivation materials, ensuring that the roots are separated by the materials.
Initially, place the plant in a shaded area with dappled light, misting the leaves without watering the pot directly.
After about 10-15 days, when new roots have emerged, move the plant to a shaded nursery for care. During the growing season, water the plant in a cycle that allows the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
During the peak of growth, water the plant daily. In dry seasons and hot summers, frequently mist the area around the pot to maintain high air humidity, and ensure good ventilation.
Less water should be given during the dormant period in winter. If the air is too dry later on, keep the soil moist by frequent watering, preferably using a spray bottle.
Tissue-cultured seedlings that have just been transplanted are very sensitive to moisture; a lack of water can lead to slow growth, wilting, and low survival rates.
Excessive misting can cause waterlogged roots and, in conditions of high temperature and humidity, can trigger a widespread occurrence of soft rot disease.
In the first week after transplanting (before the seedlings have developed new roots), maintain air humidity at around 90%. After a week, as the plant starts to grow new roots, the humidity can be reduced to 70-80%.
Alternating dry and moist conditions in the planting bed is beneficial for rooting and sprouting. Avoid direct strong sunlight; during spring and autumn, morning sunlight is acceptable, and in winter, place the plant in a well-lit area.
During other times, keep it in a bright location with indirect light and good ventilation. The overwintering temperature should be maintained at 8-10°C (46-50°F).
Since Dendrobiums have aerial roots, it is necessary to spray a suitable foliar fertilizer to provide the plants with sufficient nutrients, encouraging early rooting and sprouting.
Options for foliar fertilizer include potassium nitrate, mono-potassium phosphate, humic acids, as well as imported ternary compound fertilizers and diluted MS medium.
Generally, one week after transplanting, when new roots have emerged, start spraying with a 0.1% solution of potassium nitrate or mono-potassium phosphate every 7-10 days, continuing for three applications.
Once new shoots appear, spray with a 0.3% ternary compound fertilizer every 10-15 days.
In poor growing areas, it is important to follow up with fertilizer; the first application should be before Qingming Festival, using a mixture of nitrogen fertilizer, pig and cow manure, and river mud.
The second application should be before the beginning of winter, using peanut meal, rapeseed cake, and calcium superphosphate mixed with river mud applied directly to the roots. Additional top-dressing can also be applied.
The ideal shade level for Dendrobium growth is around 60%, so regular pruning of the host trees is necessary to prevent excessive shading or insufficient light penetration.
Each spring, before new growth starts, prune the old stems inside the cluster, removing any dead, diseased, or weak stems and roots. After 6-8 years of growth, depending on the condition of the plant cluster, revamp and divide the plants for propagation.
Tender leaves exhibit black-brown spots surrounded by yellow haloes when afflicted by this disease. These spots gradually spread across the leaf, eventually merging and leading to wilting and fall-off.
Black spot disease typically emerges in early summer (May through July). To control and prevent its spread, use a Bordeaux mixture of 1:1:150 or a 1000-fold diluted solution of Dithane.
This disease affects leaves and stems, with infected leaves displaying brown or black lesions. Incidents can occur any time from January through May.
For control, apply a 1000-fold diluted solution of 50% thiophanate-methyl or 50% tolclofos-methyl and spray two to three times.
During an infestation, the entire plant is coated with a sooty, ash-black powdery substance, severely impacting the photosynthesis process and causing stunted growth.
The main outbreak period is between May and July. To control this disease, spray once or twice with a 1000-fold diluted solution of 50% thiophanate-methyl or a 1500-fold diluted solution of 40% dimethoate EC.
These pests suck the sap from the edges or undersides of Dendrobium officinale leaves, causing wilting and, in severe cases, the death of the entire plant.
They can also trigger sooty mold. The peak hatching period for these pests is late May. For effective control, use a 1000-fold diluted solution of 40% dimethoate EC or a 1-3 degree lime sulfur mixture.
If infestations are small and scales have formed, prune and burn the infested branches and leaves or manually remove the pests.
These pests mainly hide on the undersides of leaves to consume the flesh or damage the stems and petals. They can cause significant damage throughout the year and are capable of completely defoliating a plant overnight.
Control them by using bran mixed with insecticidal bait, such as methiocarb, scattered in areas of frequent activity; spray pesticides like methiocarb or cypermethrin around the cultivation bed and its surroundings; or use quicklime and saturated saline solutions.
Maintain cleanliness in the cultivation area, and promptly remove fallen leaves and branches.
The Dendrobium officinale is highly valued for its elegant and exquisitely delicate flowers, vibrant colors, fragrant aroma, and unique trumpet-shaped lip.
It’s celebrated as one of the “four great ornamental exotic flowers,” suitable for cut flowers or pot culture, adding exceptional vibrancy to any home.
Moreover, its blossoms can remain fresh for 2-3 days after cutting, a testament to its remarkable vitality.
The whole plant has a slightly bitter taste and cool properties. It nourishes the yin, benefits the stomach, promotes the production of body fluids, and quenches thirst and clears heat.
It’s used to treat coughs, sore throats, dry mouth, childhood convulsions, food poisoning, as well as burns and scalds.
Protection Level: Listed in Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) and classified as Vulnerable (VU) on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species.
This genus is considered to embody strength and integrity, and is often presented to revered elders in Western societies.
On June 19th, it’s customarily given to fathers as the “Father’s Day Flower.” Symbolizing a warm welcome, it can be fashioned into a boutonniere with African daisies and round-leaved eucalyptus to be worn on the chest.
In Europe and America, Dendrobium flowers are commonly used in boutonnieres combined with sweet william and asparagus fern to convey a message of “welcome.” They are widely used for large banquets, ribbon-cutting ceremonies, or when hosting distinguished guests.
Peggie was once a high school mathematics teacher, but she set aside her chalkboard and textbooks to follow her lifelong passion for flowers. After years of dedication and learning, she not only established a thriving flower shop but also founded this blog, “Flowers Library”. If you have any questions or wish to learn more about flowers, feel free to contact Peggie.
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