Osmanthus fragrans cv. ‘Rixianggui’, a horticultural variety of osmanthus, is named for its continuous blooming and strong fragrance. The ‘Rixianggui’ is notable for its stems that extend beyond the green leaves, allowing it to bloom year-round.
The flowers are continuous and fragrant, refreshing to the senses. It is adaptable, cold and drought resistant, and easy to plant and grow. The ‘Rixianggui’ is highly valued for its aesthetic appeal, combining greening, scenting, and coloring functions, making it an upscale greenery species.
The ‘Rixianggui’ tree has a round to elliptical crown with dense branches. The bark is light gray, with small, round or oval lenticels, sparsely distributed.
The average number of branches per standard plant is 2.6, the average length of spring shoots is 16.3 cm, and the average number of nodes per shoot is 5.3, with an average of 22.1 axillary buds per shoot.
The leaves range from green to dark green, hard and leathery, with a slight gloss. The leaves on the early spring shoots are often broad, ovate or inverted lanceolate, with entire margins.
The leaves on the late spring and summer-autumn shoots are often elongated and elliptical, with sparse pointed serrations in the middle and upper parts. The leaves are flat and range from 7.5 to 12.0 cm in length, averaging 9.9 cm, and are 2.8 to 4.3 cm wide, averaging 3.5 cm.
The leaf edges are slightly wavy and curled, with 10 to 12 pairs of lateral veins, which are neat and clearly visible on both sides. The leaf tips are short and pointed to bluntly rounded, and the leaf base is wedge-shaped to broadly wedge-shaped.
The flower clusters at the beginning and end of the blooming period are umbels; the mid-period clusters are conical, with a distinct total peduncle, and the corolla is pale yellow to lemon yellow, with an international color code of 5D (pale yellow).
The corolla is flat and slightly inward, the corolla lobes are elliptical and deeply lobed, and the fragrance is strong.
According to statistics, each new shoot of ‘Rixianggui’ has 3 to 4 pairs of leaves, and each leaf axil has 2 to 3 pairs of axillary buds. Other osmanthus varieties generally have only 2 to 3 pairs of leaves per new shoot, and in each leaf axil, there are only 1 to 2 pairs of axillary buds.
This creates the objective material basis for ‘Rixianggui’ to have more flowers and greater flowering potential. The cumulative flowering period can reach more than 200 days a year, which is why the variety is named ‘Rixianggui’.
The ‘Rixianggui’ has a wide adaptability and strong resistance. It prefers neutral to acidic soil rich in organic matter. It requires a cool and humid microclimate and has a certain cold resistance. Its budding period starts early each year.
Its flower buds can continuously differentiate, and it has the unique feature of blooming on spring buds tender branches and woody old branches can also produce flower buds densely and bloom. This ensures the long duration and continuity of ‘Rixianggui’ blooms.
The current year’s two-leaf seedlings can bloom, which is difficult for ordinary osmanthus to match. It is also adaptable, cold and drought resistant, and easy to plant and grow.
After the successful grafting, the plant can be grown in its pot on the ground. Fertilize every half a month with soaked, decayed cake fertilizer and spray the leaves with photosynthetic micro-fertilizer.
If leaf spot disease is found, a 500x solution of anti-wilt spirit can be sprayed for prevention. If red spiders are found, a 2000x solution of peach spirit can be sprayed.
When the outdoor temperature is around 0°C, move the plant indoors to a spot where it receives about level 5 sunlight. When the lowest outdoor temperature in spring is above 3°C, the plant can be moved back outside for ground cultivation.
I have used this method to graft two 2-3 leaf osmanthus plants onto a decades-old wax tree. After a year of cultivation, the number of leaves exceeded a hundred, and the plant basically took shape.
Shape pruning can be done based on the natural form of the original stump, shaped into straight trunk, oblique trunk, horizontal trunk, dead trunk, and exposed root styles. Regardless of the shaping method, haste must be avoided to prevent failure due to rushing.
Especially for the exposed root style, it should be done in several stages, exposing a little at a time. Remember, rushing is not advisable. Generally, the plant can be shaped in about two years.
After grafting, cultivating, and pruning the osmanthus, it can be repotted into a high-quality bonsai pot. Add decorative items, plant moss, pair with a pot stand, and enjoy the exquisite charm of the osmanthus bonsai.
The lowest extreme temperature for the osmanthus origin is -7°C, the highest extreme is 38°C, and the soil pH is 6. Through test planting, it can also grow in neutral soil.
It prefers fertile soil rich in organic matter, abundant sunlight, and a temperature with plenty of moisture. It fears severe cold. In an environment heavily polluted with dust and sulfur dioxide, it struggles to grow and bloom normally.
When cultivating, choose a suitable environment. If the soil is alkaline, use 0.3% ferrous sulfate to adjust.
In the north, it is advisable to cultivate with protection, and pots in winter should be covered with a plastic film cover and moved indoors to a window that allows sunlight to reach it, maintaining a temperature above 5°C.
Osmanthus dislikes dust and should be regularly sprayed with clean water to keep the leaves clean. Do not place the pot near areas with high concentrations of harmful gases like coal smoke.
Osmanthus’ water requirements are similar to other plants, both overly dry and overly wet soil can affect growth and development.
If you notice wilted young branches and leaves, place the pot in a clear water basin where it is submerged to a quarter of its height for about an hour to recover. Excessive water can also lead to oxygen deficiency and root rot.
The “Rosa Chinensis” typically uses cutting propagation. However, due to the large number of flower buds in spring shoots, the cuttings often only heal but cannot root, resulting in a low survival rate.
Using autumn cuttings tends to yield better results. If the plants can be transplanted on-site once in the spring of the following year, the survival rate can be significantly improved.
Before the rootstock sprouts in spring, dig up mature, well-shaped mountain wax trees. Prune according to the natural shape of the original stump, leaving 2-4 stump stems, each with a 10-15 cm cross-section.
Cover the cuts with plastic bags and remove them after sprouting to prevent moisture loss and drying of the upper part of the stump stem. Then plant it in a flower pot with a suitable stem diameter.
After Qingming, when the new buds on the stump stem grow to 15 cm, leave 2-4 robust buds in the appropriate places (i.e., one per stump stem), and remove the rest. When the retained branches are semi-lignified or lignified, they can be grafted, usually between May and August.
For approach grafting, choose rootstocks and scions of the same thickness. With a sharp knife, shave about 3 cm long and 1/3 diameter thick surfaces at the grafting site, the shaved surfaces should be smooth.
Align the two shaved surfaces, match the rootstock and scion cambium layers, secure with plastic tape, and place under sunlight for regular management. Generally, after about 35 days, the union is firm, and the rootstock can be cut off above the grafting site.
The lower part is separated from the ear plant. Afterwards, depending on the strength of growth, untie the rope in time. Grafting from approach grafting to untie the rope, the scion can bloom normally.
For whip grafting, choose semi-lignified or lignified “Rosa Chinensis” as scions. Cut into 2-3 leaf sections, with a branch about 2 cm long under the leaf, and cut off 1/3 of the leaf blade.
With a sharp knife, shave the lower end of the scion into a wedge shape, about 1.5 cm long on one side and slightly shorter on the other. Make a 1.5 cm tongue-shaped cut at the grafting site on the rootstock, reaching to about 1/3 of the diameter.
Immediately wedge the long shaved surface of the scion into the split of the rootstock, align the rootstock and scion cambium layers. Secure with plastic tape and cover with a plastic film bag, then place in a shaded area.
After about 40 days, the union is firm, remove the plastic bag, remove the rootstock above the grafting site, and manage normally. It can normally bud and bloom. The untying situation is the same as approach grafting.
Preparing the seedbed: The key to a high survival rate is enclosure. This can take the form of a shed within a shed. If possible, prepare the seedbed in a transparent greenhouse, or you can set up a reed curtain shed outdoors (surrounded by reed curtains).
The seedbed should be 10 cm above the ground with good drainage. Use single bricks to build a bed about 1 meter wide, with length based on the scale of the cutting propagation.
Use bamboo to build an arch frame on the seedbed (ideally flattened with tools, sharpened at both ends for insertion into the soil, and smoothed stem for film protection), with 5-60 cm spacing between bamboo arches.
The top of the bamboo arch should be about 0.6 meters from the seedbed. The nutrient soil should be fermented, disinfected, and screened. The pH value should be between 6.5 and 6.8. Sticky soil should have 30% fine sand or river sand added.
If possible, use a bio-enzyme bacterial base fertilizer on the seedbed, and erect another shade shed above the seedbed, with a height of 60 cm (distance from the shed to the top of the bamboo arch).
For small-scale cuttings, cover the seedbed with 80% shade netting. Use non-drip film for the covering.
Cutting treatment: You can use either current year or older branches (the branch age does not significantly affect survival rate), with a length of 8-10 cm. Branches do not need to have heels when pruned.
Cinnamomum camphora can root at nodes or non-nodes. The cuttings should retain 2-3 leaves, with half of them evenly cut to prevent nutrient loss and crowding. The cut branches should be sprayed and placed indoors promptly.
If conditions permit, use 3a3 root promoting powder, for 1-2 hours of treatment. You can also mix rooting powder into a paste. Plant cuttings at a spacing of 5 cm x 10 cm, with a depth of 1/2 is appropriate.
The plant row spacing is 5cm x 10cm, and the depth is 1-2cm. Either sand or perlite can be used as substrate, with 500-600 plants per square meter. Once all parameters and work modes are set, you can root generally in 25 days under rapid propagation intelligent state.
Time management: Between the Yangtze and Huai rivers, May 5 to June 5 is the spring cutting season, and August 5 to September 20 is the autumn cutting season.
After cutting, water thoroughly once, cover with film, and press down on both sides with bricks or mud to secure it. The ends can also be secured with bricks, but don’t seal them completely to facilitate management.
During high temperature periods, shade netting or reed curtains should be added to the film (uncover on cloudy days). Under normal circumstances, you can uncover the shade netting and expose to light for half an hour at 9 a.m.
At 38°C, uncover one end to ventilate and cool down. The optimum temperature in the shed should be around 23°C. Keeping the cuttings in a stable and suitable temperature environment for a long period is key to their survival rate.
They can root in about 35 days. For Cinnamomum camphora cut in the current year, it’s best to leave them in the bed over the winter, because young seedlings have poor lignification, weak transplant resistance, which affects survival.
The main diseases and pests of Osmanthus fragrans include: leaf spot disease, leaf blight, anthracnose, white scale insects, shield bugs, and mites; red spiders should be prevented in time.
The methods for preventing and controlling diseases and pests of Osmanthus fragrans proposed by Jiangxi Sanong Garden are as follows:
Leaf spot disease and leaf blight both harm the leaves, starting from the base and edges of the leaves, causing them to gradually yellow and turn brown, and even fall off.
Diseased leaves can be manually removed and destroyed; on the other hand, it’s necessary to increase the amount of potash fertilizer and humus to enhance its disease resistance.
During the disease period, a solution of ferrous sulfate and lime water in a ratio of 1:2:150 can be sprayed.
White scale insects often appear during the plum rain season; these insects suck the juice from the leaves with their needle-like mouthparts, causing the leaves to form spots, curl, and shrink.
When the disease occurs, an 80% Dimethoate emulsion mixed with 1000-1500 times water solution can be sprayed. Shield bugs also harm the leaves, causing them to turn yellow and fall off, and can be manually brushed off the leaves.
Mites can cause leaves to lose their green color, turning yellow or gray-white, and are most harmful during hot and stuffy daytime.
At the early stage of infestation, a 700 times diluted solution of 20% Fenazaquin can be sprayed; in the middle stage, either a 2000 times diluted solution of 80% Dimethoate emulsion or a 3000 times diluted solution of 40% Oxime ether emulsion can be sprayed for extermination.
Red spiders often occur under hot and dry climatic conditions, causing the leaves to curl and even shrivel, and finally fall off. A 2000-2500 times diluted solution of 40% Lequor emulsion can be used, sprayed once a week, for 3-4 consecutive times, to exterminate them.
Osmanthus fragrans is a treasure among the Osmanthus family, evergreen, strong resistance to adversity, with nutritional growth and reproductive growth coexisting, blooming for more than 240 days a year (characteristic of mature trees).
The peak blooming period in China is from September to the end of April the following year, which is the off-season for most other flowers, making it the first choice for garden greening and bonsai production.
It has quietly entered urban and rural homes and hospital wards, and is well received. The essential oil of Osmanthus fragrans is a high-grade natural plant aromatic oil with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, cough-relieving, asthma-relieving, phlegm-reducing, and blood pressure-lowering effects.
As its medical and health care uses are explored and utilized, its economic value will far exceed its ornamental value.
With its well-developed root system and rapid growth, Osmanthus fragrans provides year-round green foliage for viewing.
Its long flowering period and beautiful shape allow it to bloom continuously during the four major Chinese holidays: Mid-Autumn Festival, National Day, New Year’s Day, and Spring Festival, filling the air with its fragrance, making it a rare evergreen fragrant tree species.
Osmanthus fragrans has high ornamental value, integrating greening, fragrance, and color functions in one, and is a high-end greening tree species.
Osmanthus fragrans can be cultivated into a small tree with a beautiful round shape, or a large shrub with dense branches and leaves, also suitable for pot planting or cutting branches and leaves for floral arrangements, adding fragrance and greenery to the room.
It’s suitable for use in square, community greening, rooftop gardens, roads, campuses and other landscaping projects. Medium and small plants are suitable for potting, used to fragrance the home environment.
Branches and leaves can be used as high-end cut flower materials, and its economic value will far exceed its ornamental value.
Peggie was once a high school mathematics teacher, but she set aside her chalkboard and textbooks to follow her lifelong passion for flowers. After years of dedication and learning, she not only established a thriving flower shop but also founded this blog, “Flowers Library”. If you have any questions or wish to learn more about flowers, feel free to contact Peggie.
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