The Nymphaea alba is a perennial aquatic flowering plant in the water lily family.
Its leaves are either round or nearly so; submerged leaves are thin and membranous, young leaves are purplish-red, turning to ink-green on the surface when mature, with a dark purplish-red underside and shallow triangular serrations at the margin.
The flowers float on or rise above the water surface, with rose-red or pink petals arranged in a rosette; the fruit is a berry. The flowering season is from May to September, and the fruiting season from July to October.
Originally from India, the Red Water Lily is found in China and also in Sweden. It thrives in full sunlight, is heat-tolerant, cold-resistant, but does not do well in shade.
It prefers rich loamy soil and is commonly found in ponds, lakes, and park water features. Propagation is typically by division or seeding.
The Red Water Lily has cooling and detoxifying properties, astringent and anti-diarrheal effects, and can be used to treat tuberculosis and hemorrhoids.
Its gracefully dancing leaves and charmingly deceptive reflections resemble a fairy walking on water, providing a delightful and refreshing sight. It is an aquatic garden plant valued for both its flowers and foliage.
The rhizomes of the Red Water Lily, rich in starch, are edible or can be used to brew alcohol, and the entire plant may be used as fodder.
The Red Water Lily is a perennial aquatic herb with creeping rhizomes.
The leaves are papery, nearly circular, with a diameter of 10-25 centimeters, a deeply heart-shaped base, sharp segments, nearly parallel or spreading, entire or wavy margins with shallow triangular teeth, and are glabrous on both sides with small spots.
Young leaves are purplish-red, turning glossy ink-green on the surface and dark purplish-red underneath as they age, with petioles up to 50 centimeters long.
The flowers are large, with a diameter of 30-34 centimeters, rose-red, and fragrant; the flower stalks are roughly the same length as the petioles.
The sepals are lanceolate, 3-5 centimeters long, falling off or decaying after flowering; there are 20-25 petals, white, ovate-elliptical, 3-5.5 centimeters long, the outer ones slightly longer than the sepals; the receptacle is cylindrical; the anthers do not extend at the tip, the pollen grains are crinkled with papillae; the stigma has 14-20 radiating lines, and is flattened.
The berries are flat to semi-spherical, 2.5-3 centimeters long; the seeds are elliptical, 2-3 centimeters long. The flowering season is from June to August, and the fruiting season from August to October.
The Red Water Lily favors full sunlight, is tolerant of high temperatures and cold, and can overwinter without protection in the south of China.
It prefers strong light, good ventilation, and can grow in a shaded pond. It is not demanding in terms of soil quality, growing well in pH levels of 6-8, with the ideal water depth being 25-30 centimeters, and not exceeding 80 centimeters.
It flourishes in soil rich in organic matter and is commonly found in ponds, lakes, and park water features.
The red water lily is native to India and can be found in China, as well as in Sweden.
The red water lily starts sprouting leaves between March and April, and from May to August, it blooms successively, with each flower lasting for 2 to 5 days. After flowering, the plant produces seeds.
By October and November, the stems and leaves wither, and in the following spring, they sprout anew. This plant thrives in ponds and lakes, and is commonly cultivated in the water features of parks.
Propagation is generally achieved through division and seeding.
The red water lily is mainly propagated by division. Cold-hardy varieties are typically divided before sprouting in early spring, around March to April, while the varieties sensitive to cold require higher air and water temperatures and are thus divided around mid-May.
During division, the rhizomes are excavated, and the sections with full buds are selected. These rhizomes are cut into segments of 8 to 10 centimeters in length, each with at least one bud, and then planted.
The buds should be placed upward, just below the surface of the soil, and the soil should be leveled with the buds. Plant 5 to 7 segments per pot.
After planting, expose the plants to some sunlight before adding shallow water to help maintain the water temperature. However, water should not be too deep to avoid affecting germination.
As the temperature rises and new buds start to grow, the water level can be increased. Position the plants in a well-ventilated area with ample sunlight.
The water depth for cultivation should be between 20 to 40 centimeters, and it can be adjusted deeper during the summer months. In the high-temperature season, it’s important to keep the water in the pots clean.
The red water lily can also be propagated by seeding. After the flowers bloom, and before the fruits ripen, the flowers are covered with a cheesecloth bag to catch the seeds when the fruit splits.
Once harvested, the seeds must be stored in water, as they lose their germination ability if kept dry. Seeding is done from March to April, using fertile loamy soil in the pots.
The soil should not be filled too high in the pot, leaving about 5 to 6 centimeters from the rim. After sowing the seeds, cover them with 1 centimeter of soil and press down.
Then submerge the pot in water so that the water level is 3 to 4 centimeters above the soil. Cover the soil with glass to raise the temperature inside the pot and place it in a sunny, warm spot.
The ideal temperature for seeding is between 25 to 30 degrees Celsius. Germination occurs after about half a month, and the plants will flower in the second year.
For planting, choose a jar about 50 centimeters tall with as large a diameter as possible, without drainage holes at the bottom.
Fill the pot with a uniform mix of nutrient-rich soil to a depth of 30-40 centimeters to facilitate water storage. Place the well-growing propagation material in the center of the jar, with just the tip of the sprout peeking above the soil.
After planting, add water but do not fill it completely—the ideal level is about 2-3 centimeters above the soil layer to enable warming and ensure a high survival rate. As the plant grows, gradually increase the water level.
Select a nutrient pot with no drainage holes, 30 centimeters tall and 40 centimeters in diameter. The method of planting and the nutrient soil used should be similar to that in jar cultivation, with the soil filled to about 25 centimeters.
After planting, submerge the pot into a pond with the water level just covering the nutrient pot, and increase the water level gradually as the plant grows.
This method’s advantage is that it makes overwintering easier—simply raise the water level in the winter to keep the water lily’s buds below the ice. The downside is the necessity to enter the pond for maintenance, which can be inconvenient.
Choose a fertile pond with at least 30 centimeters of silt at the bottom. Plant the propagation material directly into the mud, starting with a shallow water level of about 2-3 centimeters to aid in warming and then increasing the level as the plant grows.
Before winter sets in, deepen the water level according to the region to ensure that the rhizomes are below the ice, thus enabling the plants to overwinter successfully.
The advantages of this method include a better group effect and larger growth volume, but the downsides are difficulties in harvesting the following year and in controlling diseases and pests.
The control of the water level is one of the critical factors for the normal growth of cold-hardy water lilies. As the lilies grow, their water level needs vary, so it’s important to manage this aspect carefully.
Since water temperature directly affects the growth and flowering of water lilies, maintain a shallow water level in the early stages to quickly raise the temperature and promote root growth, which will improve the survival rate.
As the leaves grow, gradually raise the water level. When the plants reach their peak growth period, the water level should be at its maximum to facilitate the elongation of the petioles and expansion of the leaves, aiding in nutrient storage.
In autumn, lower the water level to increase water temperature and ensure the leaves receive ample sunlight, enhancing photosynthesis and promoting the growth of water lily rhizomes and side buds, which increases the number of propagation materials for the following year.
As the weather cools at the end of autumn, gradually deepen the water level to control vegetative growth without submerging most of the leaves, and before the surface freezes, deepen the water level in one go, according to the historical maximum ice thickness to ensure the water lily buds are safely below the ice layer during winter.
The principle of fertilization must benefit the growth of the water lily without wasting nutrients in the water, as this can lead to eutrophication, stimulating the growth of algae and aquatic plants and potentially polluting the water.
Encase the fertilizer in resilient, water-absorbent paper with a few small holes for nutrient release and place it about 15-20 centimeters away from the center at a depth of less than 10 centimeters.
Alternatively, mix the fertilizer with moist garden soil or clay at a ratio (generally 10:1 for chemical fertilizers and 4:1 for organic fertilizers), then form the mixture into balls.
Ensure they don’t stick to your hands but don’t fall apart when released. Place these balls radially around the rhizome at a distance of 15-20 centimeters and at a depth of 10-15 centimeters below the rhizome.
Fertilize 15 days before the peak flowering period and then every 15 days to ensure abundant flowering. However, avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to excessive vegetative growth and larger leaves, which can negatively affect the overall flowering effect.
Reasonable fertilization can extend the flowering period of cold-hardy water lilies and increase the number of propagation materials for the next year.
Rot Disease
Select disease-resistant varieties.
Implement crop rotation every 2-3 years in fields heavily affected by disease.
Choose healthy lotus rhizomes and treat them with a fungicide solution made by combining a 50% carbendazim WP or a 20% thiophanate-methyl WP at an 800x dilution with a 75% chlorothalonil WP at an 800x dilution.
After spraying, seal the rhizomes under plastic film for 24 hours, then air-dry before planting.
Deep plow and harrow the lotus fields, applying 1500-2250 kg of lime per hectare.
Strengthen fertilizer and water management by applying well-rotted organic fertilizer in a timely and adequate manner.
Combine organic and chemical fertilizers, as well as nitrogen with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
Manage water levels appropriately during different growth stages of the lotus, maintaining proper depths to control temperature and fertilization, and prevent disease exacerbation due to high water temperatures or prolonged deep watering.
Promptly remove diseased plants and spray with a 600x diluted solution of 50% carbendazim WP combined with 75% chlorothalonil WP.
Leaf Rot Disease
Remove and deeply bury or burn infected plant debris after harvest to reduce pathogen sources.
At the onset of the disease, spray with a 800x solution of 50% carbendazim WP or a 800x solution of 70% thiophanate-methyl WP or a 500x solution of 30% copper oxychloride suspension, repeating every 10 days or so for 2-3 applications.
Anthracnose Disease
During the growing season, collect and deeply bury or burn infected plant debris.
Apply well-rotted organic fertilizer adequately and timely, and ensure the combination of organic and chemical fertilizers, as well as nitrogen with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
Promptly remove diseased plants and spray with a 600x solution of 50% carbendazim WP, 75% chlorothalonil WP, 500x solution of 36% thiophanate-methyl suspension, 1500x solution of 50% carbendazim WP or a 800x solution of 80% anthracnose flumetralin WP, repeating every 10 days for 2-3 applications.
The small firefly beetle is a destructive pest; adults overwinter in vegetation near ponds and lay eggs on the underside of leaves in late spring, producing 2-3 generations per season.
During this time, use water to wash the leaves, causing adults and pupae to fall into the water and be eaten by fish. If larvae cause damage, spray with a 1200x solution of imidacloprid.
Water lily aphids damage many soft-leaved aquatic plants, particularly affecting leaves and flower stalks in summer, leading to color changes in the flowers.
Their eggs overwinter on plants of the Prunus genus, especially on plum and hawthorn trees, and less commonly on cherry trees.
To prevent infestation, avoid planting Prunus species extensively near water, or wash these host plants with tar water in winter. Alternatively, rinse leaves with a hose and apply insecticides.
For snail and slug damage, mix fenitrothion or diazinon with sawdust, place in a cloth bag, and tie it to the leaf stem so the bag floats on the water’s surface.
The movement of the water disperses the insecticide, effectively killing the pests. Biological control is also effective; stocking 5 kg of loaches per 1000m² of water surface can effectively stop the spread of pests.
For aphid infestations on leaves, spray with a 1000-1200x solution of dichlorvos or a 2000-2500x solution of 50% dimethoate EC.
Initially introduced for private courtyard admiration in China’s history of lotus culture, pot-grown lotuses have since seen their aesthetic value enhanced through a combination of pot and pond cultivation techniques.
This method features prominently in garden water features and miniature landscape compositions. The water lily rock bonsai is an innovative form of bonsai that harmoniously integrates the hardy, upright nature of rocks with the delicate, enchanting beauty of water lilies.
The red water lily possesses heat-clearing, detoxifying, and anti-diarrheal properties. It is used to treat conditions such as tuberculosis and hemorrhoids.
Nutritional analysis of water lilies reveals that they are rich in 17 amino acids and their proteins are of high quality.
Results also indicate a high content of vitamin C, flavonoid glycosides, and trace elements like zinc, which together provide a strong lead-detoxifying function.
Acute toxicity tests, micronucleus assays, and sperm malformation tests on animals all suggest that water lilies are a safe and reliable substance without any toxic side effects.
Water lily pollen is nutritionally rich, characterized by completeness, balance, and concentration, making it a promising natural nutritional resource.
The rhizomes of red water lilies are starch-rich and can be consumed or used in brewing; the entire plant is also used as fodder.
In ancient Greece and Rome, water lilies were revered as sacred and beautiful symbols, akin to the lotus in China, and were often offered to goddesses in rituals. The New Testament also speaks of the sacred emerging unsoiled from the mud.
The water lily is the birth flower for August 5th, symbolizing purity, innocence, and allure. To Germans, the water lily represents glamour.
Those born under this flower’s blessing are said to possess an irresistible charm to the opposite sex but often find it challenging to maintain peaceful relationships with their peers.
In ancient Egyptian mythology, the sun was believed to be born from a lotus bloom, hence the water lily was revered as the “sacred flower.”
It became a ubiquitous totem on the columns of temples throughout ancient Egypt, symbolizing a prayer for a beginning that never fades.
Peggie was once a high school mathematics teacher, but she set aside her chalkboard and textbooks to follow her lifelong passion for flowers. After years of dedication and learning, she not only established a thriving flower shop but also founded this blog, “Flowers Library”. If you have any questions or wish to learn more about flowers, feel free to contact Peggie.
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