600+ Types of Flowers A To Z (With Names and Pictures)
Types Of Flowers By Names (A-Z) Types Of Flowers By Color Types Of Flowers By Season Types Of Flowers By Blooming Time 600+ Types of Flowers No. Flower Name No.…
The multiflora rose, is a deciduous shrub from the Rosaceae family. Known for its climbing, vine-like nature, it is a small, cold-tolerant plant that thrives in sunlight. Its flowering season is from May to June, with pink and white being the most common colors. Since ancient times, it has been regarded as a notable and beautiful flower.
It grows predominantly in the provinces of Jiangsu, Shandong, and Henan in China, with a small distribution in Japan and Korea. The multiflora rose is highly valued for its aesthetic and medicinal uses.
Moreover, the term “rose” can also generally refer to all species of the Rosaceae genus, including modern hybrid tea roses.
The multiflora rose is a climbing shrub; its small branches are cylindrical and usually hairless with short, slightly curved, thick skin bundles. It has 5-9 leaflets, sometimes 3 near the flower cluster, with a leaf stalk length of 5-10 cm. The leaflets are oval, oblong, or egg-shaped, 1.5-5 cm in length, 8-28 mm in width, with sharp or blunt tips, nearly circular or wedge-shaped bases, and sharply serrated edges.
The upper surface is hairless, while the underside has soft hair. The leaf stalk and axis either have soft hair or are hairless with scattered glandular hair. The stipules are comb-toothed, mostly attached to the leaf stalk, with or without glandular hairs on the edges. Multiple flowers form a conical inflorescence, with a flower stalk 1.5-2.5 cm long, hairless or with glandular hair, sometimes with comb-toothed small bracts at the base.
The flowers have a diameter of 1.5-2 cm, with linear split pieces in the middle of the sepal, which is hairless on the outside and hairy on the inside. The petals are white, wide and oval-shaped, slightly concave at the tip, and wedge-shaped at the base.
The pistils are bundled together, hairless, and slightly longer than the stamens. The fruit is nearly spherical, 6-8 mm in diameter, reddish-brown or purplish-brown, glossy, hairless, with the sepals fallen off.
Multiflora roses love sunlight and tolerate partial shade. They are cold-resistant and can usually survive the winter outdoors in most parts of northern China. They are not particular about soil and can tolerate drought and poor soil.
However, they grow best in deep, loose, fertile, moist soil with good drainage.
They can also grow normally in heavy clay soil. They do not tolerate waterlogging or stagnant water. When planting a new plant, it is best to apply well-rotted organic fertilizer.
For the first couple of years after planting, a base fertilizer should be applied every autumn to promote growth and flowering. Multiflora roses have a strong capacity for regeneration, tolerate pruning, and are resistant to pollution.
The multiflora rose is native to several provinces in China such as Jiangsu, Shandong, and Henan. There is also a small distribution in Japan and Korea.
Seed removal is usually done before sowing, either by hand or machine. The seeds are then rinsed with clean water and air-dried indoors. Once the seeds are dry, they can be sown.
If they cannot be sown immediately, they can be refrigerated for a short time, but care should be taken not to let them dry out too much as this will affect germination.
Sowing is usually done in March or April. After sowing, cover with a ground film or set up a plastic shed over the sowing bed. Seedlings should emerge after 8-10 days. If a ground film is used, it should be removed as soon as most of the seedlings have emerged to prevent them from getting scorched.
After the seedlings have emerged, water should be given, using a fine stream to prevent the seedlings from being buried in mud. After that, water every 10 days.
Once the seedlings have produced their first true leaves, they can be watered every 15 days. At the same time, weeding and soil loosening should be done. When the seedlings are about 5-6 cm tall, they can be thinned and transplanted.
Before planting, dig a trench and apply a base fertilizer. Water regularly in the spring. New long branches grow from the base each year, and flowers appear on their side branches the same year. After flowering, the flowered branches should be pruned.
The multiflora rose is very cold-hardy and grows well. During the rainy season, pay attention to drainage to prevent flooding. Fertilize 2-3 times to encourage the flowering branches to bloom the following year.
Before planting the seedlings, the soil can be disinfected with chloropicrin, aldicarb, etc., and well-rotted organic fertilizer should be added. After planting, a base fertilizer should be applied every autumn to promote growth and flowering.
Keep the soil moist before flowering, as drought at this time will affect the number of flowers; during the rainy season, pay attention to drainage to prevent root rot.
During the bud stage, apply a dilute cake fertilizer water 1-2 times, which will improve the color of the flowers and prolong the flowering period. Pruning is usually done before the leaf buds sprout. When pruning, keep the main branches about 1.5 m long and the side branches 3-5 buds from the base.
At the same time, remove any dead, weak, or diseased branches, and prune any old or overly dense branches.
Potted multiflora roses are usually potted in November or March-April of the second year. The pot should be on the larger side to allow the root system to expand.
When transplanting, trim the roots slightly (cut off any damaged or overly long roots) before planting. The planting depth should be shallow, with the rootstock part left above the soil surface, then water thoroughly.
After new buds sprout in the spring, thin out any poorly developed or overly dense buds, leaving only the robust ones. Prune and shape the plant at least twice a year.
The first time is after the spring and summer flowers finish, around July to August. The second time is after the autumn flowers, in December or March of the following year.
The principle of pruning is to remove weak and diseased branches, leaving strong and healthy ones. Thin out dense areas to ensure that the remaining branches are evenly distributed and have a reasonable amount of space. After flowering, the branches of a potted rose need to be pruned, usually leaving 15-20 cm.
Common propagation methods include division, cutting, and layering, all of which can be done in spring, early summer, and early autumn. Seed sowing is also an option, either in autumn or after sand storage in the spring, with germination occurring 1-2 months after sowing.
Division involves severing the small offshoots that grow from the base of a plant’s root or stem from the parent plant and planting them separately to grow into independent new plants. This method is straightforward, quick, and widely used in horticulture.
Also known as striking, cutting is a common propagation method for plants. It involves taking parts of a plant—stem, leaf, root, bud (known as cuttings in horticulture)—and inserting them into soil or sand, or soaking them in water until they root.
They can then be planted to grow into independent new plants. Different plants require different conditions when it comes to cutting, and understanding and accommodating these needs can lead to higher success rates.
Selection and treatment of cuttings. Choose healthy, pest-free branches for cuttings. Once selected, cuttings require careful handling. Soft cuttings should be struck immediately after cutting to prevent wilting. Succulent plants (like cacti) should be left in a ventilated area for a few days after cutting until the cut surface has slightly shrunk, or the cut surface can be lightly singed to prevent rot.
Temperature. Most plants root quickest at a consistent temperature of 20-25°C. Too low, and rooting is slow. Too high, and the cuttings may rot. So, if the temperature can be controlled artificially, cuttings can be taken all year round. Under natural conditions, spring and autumn temperatures are most suitable.
Humidity. After striking, it’s crucial to keep the cuttings’ substrate moist but not overly so to avoid rot. Air humidity is also important. Covering with plastic film can help maintain humidity, but make sure to ventilate intermittently.
Layering involves pressing a plant’s branches or vines into a moist substrate. After they root, they are separated from the parent plant to form new plants. This method results in a high success rate, though it has a small propagation coefficient. It’s often used when other propagation methods fail or when larger new plants are desired.
Layering is a form of artificial asexual reproduction in plants. Unlike grafting, the branches remain attached to the parent plant, with a portion buried in soil. Once they root, they’re severed from the parent plant.
Normal layering. Suitable for plants with soft branches or vines or trees with many bendable branches near the ground (like magnolias and wax apricots). Cut the parent plant’s 1-2 year old branches in four directions, injure the underside, press into a pit, secure with a hook, firm the soil, and let the branch emerge vertically from the ground and tie it to a support.
Horizontal layering. Suitable for tree species with long branches that root easily (like dwarf apple rootstocks and climbing roses). Also known as continuous layering or trench layering.
Dig a shallow trench along the branch, injure the branch at regular intervals and secure it horizontally in the trench, remove downward-growing buds, and fill the trench with soil. Once the branch roots and buds, cut it into sections, each with a piece of the parent body.
Serpentine layering. Suitable for vine plants with very long stems (like grapes). Bend the stem up and down in a wave-like pattern, bury the portions touching the ground in soil, and after they root and the portions above ground bud and grow for a certain period, cut them into new plants.
Mound layering. Suitable for trees with strong suckering at the root collar or clump-forming trees (like magnolias, pearl plums, yellow roses, plums, pomegranates, etc.). After injuring the base of the branches at the root collar, mound soil over them, and once they root, divide them into new plants.
Air layering. Invented in China, also known as Chinese layering or high layering. Suitable for tall or inflexible plants, often used for valuable tree species (like camellias, osmanthus, longan, litchi, passiflora, etc.).
Choose 1-3-year-old branches, ring-bark 2-4 cm, scrape off the cambium or make longitudinal cuts, wrap plastic, split bamboo tubing, or clay pots around the injured area, tie tightly, fill with moss or compost, water regularly to keep moist, and after they root, cut them off to form new plants.
Significant diseases include powdery mildew and black spot disease, which can be treated by spraying with a 1000 times diluted solution of 70% methyl tobujin wettable powder. Pests such as aphids and thorn moths can be controlled by spraying with a 2000 times diluted solution of 10% insecticide emulsion oil.
The epidemic conditions of powdery mildew mainly involve two factors: widespread planting of susceptible varieties and suitable environmental conditions.
Generally, under conditions where the density of wheat is too high, nitrogen fertilizer is excessively applied, wheat plants grow vigorously, plants weaken, and the field humidity is high or lodging occurs, the disease is often severe.
This disease usually appears at the end of March to the beginning of April, and after mid-April, as the temperature gradually rises, the incidence rate rapidly increases, causing a pandemic under suitable conditions.
Control methods:
Agricultural measures include planting disease-resistant varieties and rational planting and fertilization.
Chemical control involves using fungicide seed treatment in heavily diseased autumn seedling plots, and when the field incidence rate is 3% to 5% in autumn or spring (examined from flag leaf to the second leaf below the flag leaf during the mature plant period), use 20 to 30 ml of 20% rust-preventing emulsion oil or 50g of 15% rust-preventing wettable powder per 666.7 square meters.
Spray with 50 to 60 kg of water, or low-volume spray with 10 to 15 kg of water. Alternatively, use 50 ml of 25% pestfungicide emulsion oil per 666.7 square meters, add 50 kg of water, and spray evenly.
Black spot disease can damage leaves, petioles, tender branches and flower stalks, but it mainly affects leaves. There are two types of symptoms: one is that small red-brown to purple-brown spots appear on the leaf surface at the initial stage of the disease, which gradually expand into circular or irregular dark black spots.
The spots often have a yellow halo around them, with a radial edge, and the spot diameter is about 3-15 mm. In the later stage, small black points are scattered on the spots, which are the asexual pustules of the pathogen.
In serious cases, the lower leaves of the plant turn yellow and fall early, causing individual branches to die, such as in the case of black spot disease in roses.
The other type is that brown to dark brown nearly circular or irregular ring spots appear on the leaves, with black mold-like objects growing on them, which are the conidia of the pathogen. In severe cases, the leaves fall early, affecting growth, such as in the case of black spot disease in plum leaves.
Control methods:
Select high-quality disease-resistant varieties.
After autumn, remove dead branches and fallen leaves and burn them promptly.
Strengthen cultivation management, pay attention to shaping and pruning, and ensure ventilation and light transmission.
When new leaves unfold, spray with 500 to 1000 times diluted solution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, or 500 times diluted solution of 75% chlorothalonil, or 500 times diluted solution of 80% mancozeb. Spray once every 7 to 10 days, for a total of 3 to 4 times.
Aphid control should utilize various methods to halt their harmful activities, mainly including the following points:
To eradicate aphids, start during the overwintering period of the flowers, which can achieve twice the result with half the effort. Solely relying on control during the spring and autumn when aphid damage is most severe will not yield significant results.
For newly introduced flower species and seedlings, strict inspections should be conducted to prevent the invasion of new pests from other places. Disinfect the soil and old flower pots to kill residual eggs.
Combine with pruning, thoroughly remove residual flowers, diseased and dead branches and leaves where aphids live or where their eggs are hidden, and burn them collectively.
Different flower varieties have different pest resistance, so disease and pest-resistant varieties should be selected to both reduce aphid damage and save on medication costs.
When a small number of aphids are found, they can be brushed off with a brush dipped in water, or the potted plants can be tilted and rotated under tap water to wash off the aphids and clean the leaves, thereby improving the ornamental value and promoting leaf respiration.
If conditions permit, natural enemies such as ladybugs and lacewings can also be used for control.
When a large number of aphids are found, they should be isolated promptly, and pesticides or folk methods should be chosen immediately to eliminate the pests. The specific measures are as follows:
Prepare a 1:15 ratio of tobacco water and spray after soaking for 4 hours.
Prepare a 1:4:400 ratio of laundry detergent, urea, and water and spray.
Spray with a 1000 times diluted solution of 10% rogor emulsion oil or 1000 to 1500 times diluted solution of malathion emulsion oil or 1000 times diluted solution of dimethoate emulsion oil.
For peach aphids and other aphids that are covered with wax powder, when any pesticide is applied, 1‰ of neutral soap water or laundry detergent should be added.
Thorn moths: In the north, they produce one generation per year, in areas downstream of the Yangtze River, they produce two generations, and a few produce three generations. All overwinter as prepupae in cocoons in the soil 3 to 6 cm below the trees.
In the one-generation area, pupation begins in mid-May, and eclosion and egg-laying begin in early June. The occurrence period is irregular, and newly hatched larvae can be seen from mid-June to early August. Damage is most severe in August, and prepupae begin to enter the soil to overwinter in late August.
In the 2 to 3-generation area, pupation begins in mid-April, and eclosion occurs from mid-May to early June. The first generation of larvae occurs from late May to mid-July. The second generation of larvae occurs from late July to mid-September. The third generation of larvae occurs from early September to October.
The final generation of mature larvae overwinter in cocoons in the soil. Adults mostly eclose at dusk, hide during the day, come out at night, mate immediately after eclosion, and lay eggs two days later. Eggs are mostly scattered on leaf surfaces. The egg stage lasts about 7 days.
There are 8 instars of larvae, and from the 6th instar, they can eat whole leaves. Mature larvae mostly descend from the trees at night and enter the soil to pupate.
Control methods:
Dig out the cocoons in the soil around the base of the tree to reduce the source of pests.
During the peak period of larvae, spray with a 1200 times diluted solution of 80% dimethoate emulsion oil or 1000 times diluted solution of 50% parathion emulsion oil, 1000 times diluted solution of 50% malathion emulsion oil, 1000 times diluted solution of 25% imidacloprid emulsion oil, 1500 times diluted solution of 25% acetamiprid emulsion oil, or 3000 times diluted solution of 5% cypermethrin emulsion oil.
Placing multiflora roses in your bedroom at home is an excellent choice for interior design. Given that we spend about a third of our time sleeping, the bedroom decor greatly influences our well-being. If you place a couple of rose plants in the sunniest part of your bedroom, they will absorb the room’s waste air as you rest there day and night.
Over time, this can be a very beneficial choice. You could also place a few potted rose plants on your balcony. The open space and ample sunlight make it an ideal spot for growing roses.
Multiflora roses have a cooling effect, improve digestion, regulate blood flow, and detoxify the body. They can be used to remedy summer heat, thirst, stomach discomfort, vomiting blood, nosebleeds, mouth sores, abscesses, and irregular menstruation.
Wild multiflora rose: Cultivated roses do not bear fruit, but wild roses produce lush, vibrant red fruit. Besides their stunning appearance, which is comparable to other roses, their fruit is edible. This flower exhibits a poetic quality, and its symbolic language represents romance.
People born under the sign of this flower have a romantic disposition and are dreamers at heart. However, they also have keen judgment when it comes to handling matters and are well-suited for artistic careers. Emotionally, they are perfectionists.
Peggie was once a high school mathematics teacher, but she set aside her chalkboard and textbooks to follow her lifelong passion for flowers. After years of dedication and learning, she not only established a thriving flower shop but also founded this blog, “Flowers Library”. If you have any questions or wish to learn more about flowers, feel free to contact Peggie.
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