Dendranthema morifolium, also known as “Ink Chrysanthemum,” is a perennial herbaceous plant standing 60-150 cm tall. It is a prized ornamental plant and one of the various chrysanthemum species in China.
The Ink Chrysanthemum blooms exhibit a deep purple color, with branches varying in thickness and a blackish-purple tone, often blossoming in the autumn, later than its counterparts.
The early blossom stage displays a lotus-like form, while the full bloom stage showcases a recurved shape. The petals are thin, glossy, and radiate a velvety sheen, exhibiting a dark color that glows with a hint of red.
At the center of the flower, tubular florets can be found. Its color is rich but not overpowering, the floral disk is large, and the hollow petals curve at the end, resembling a palm with red imbued with purple and purple hinting at black.
The flower core is thick, the petal margins are fine, and the color is ink-like, exuding a soft, velvety shine, making it more enchanting compared to other chrysanthemums.
Amidst the colorful backdrop of autumn Chrysanthemums, the Ink Chrysanthemum stands out with its dignified yet lively presence, and its splendor never undermines its delicacy.
Chrysanthemums are short-day plants with a strong adaptability. They prefer cool conditions and can withstand cold. The optimum growth temperature is between 18-21℃, with a maximum of 32℃ and a minimum of 10℃.
The underground rhizomes can generally withstand a low-temperature limit of -10℃. The minimum night temperature during the flowering period is 17℃, which can drop to 15-13℃ in the mid and late flowering stages.
They enjoy abundant sunshine but can also tolerate a bit of shade. They are relatively drought-resistant and detest waterlogging. They prefer high, dry terrains, deep soil layers, rich in humus, light, fertile, and well-drained sandy loam soil.
They can grow in slightly acidic to neutral soil, but the ideal pH is between 6.2-6.7. Continuous cropping is to be avoided.
The Ink Chrysanthemum is a valuable flower, also known as Ink Lotus, and is one of the top ten famous chrysanthemums in China. Its flowers are deep purple, with black-purple stems of varying thickness.
It usually blooms in autumn, later than its peers. The initial flowering stage is a lotus shape, while the peak flowering stage is a roll-back shape. The petals are thin, the color is black revealing a red hue, shiny, and slightly velvety.
The flower’s center is tubular. The color is intense without being heavy, the flower disc is large, the hollow petal ends are curled, the flower diameter is palm-sized, the color is red tinged with purple, and purple revealing black.
The flower core is solid, the petals are silk-like, and the color is like ink. Amidst the colorful autumn chrysanthemums, it appears dignified yet lively, luxurious yet charming.
It is advisable to use fertile sandy soil. Start with a small pot, then move to a larger one after 2-3 pot changes. By July, the pot should be established; use a mixture of six parts leaf mold, three parts sand, and one part cake fertilizer residue.
After watering thoroughly, place it in a cool shaded area. Once the plant grows normally, move it to a sunny location.
Young chrysanthemum seedlings require little water in spring. As the seedlings grow and the weather gets hotter in summer, more water is needed due to evaporation.
Water once in the early morning, then supplement in the evening. Use a spray bottle to mist the chrysanthemum stems, leaves, and surrounding ground to increase the humidity.
Before the start of autumn, control the water and fertilizer appropriately to prevent plants from growing too tall. After the start of autumn and before flowering, increase the amount of water and start fertilizing, gradually increasing the concentration of the fertilizer water.
In winter, the growth of the flower branches basically stops and the water consumption of the plant significantly decreases, so watering must be strictly controlled. Watering should be done gently with a spray bottle and not with a heavy flow.
Watering should be adjusted according to the season, number of times, and weather changes. Less or no watering is required on rainy days; more watering is needed when the temperature is high and evaporation is large, and vice versa.
Generally, when watering the flowers, water when the pot soil becomes dry. Do not water when it is not dry, and soak thoroughly when watering.
However, do not let the flower pot accumulate water, otherwise, it will cause root rot, yellow leaves, and plant death.
When planting chrysanthemums, apply sufficient base fertilizer in the pot. Afterwards, apply nitrogen fertilizer every 10 days. From the time the chrysanthemum buds start to form until the buds appear, apply a slightly stronger fertilizer water once a week.
When the buds are about to bloom, apply another batch of concentrated fertilizer water, then stop fertilizing. If calcium superphosphate or a 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied at this time, the flowers will bloom more brightly.
When the chrysanthemum plant grows to more than 10 centimeters tall, start pinching out the top. During this process, only leave 4-5 leaves at the base of the plant and remove all the leaves on the top.
When 5-6 new leaves have grown, pinch out the top again, leaving 4-7 main branches on the plant. Remove any new branches or buds in time. Pinching can cause the plant to branch and effectively control the height and shape of the plant.
The last time you pinch, trim the chrysanthemum plant to shape, removing too many branches, too vigorous and too weak branches, leaving 3-5 branches.
When the buds appear in September, remove the flower buds at the bottom of the plant, leaving only one flower bud at the top of each branch.
During autumn and winter, cut and insert the outer foot bud stems of the plant. The standard for selecting buds is distance from the plant and full bud head.
After selecting the bud, strip off the lower leaves, insert them into coarse sand in flower pots or cutting beds in the greenhouse or shed at a plant distance of 3-4cm and row distance of 4-5cm, maintain a room temperature of 7-8°C, and transplant them outdoors when spring warms up.
Soft Branch Cutting: This method is most widely used. Most are cut in April-May. Cut 8-10cm tender techniques as cuttings, and manage them carefully after insertion.
At a temperature of 18-21°C, most varieties root in about three weeks, and can be moved and potted in about four weeks.
The medium can be garden soil mixed with 1/3 rice husk ash. Shade with reed curtains on a high bed. For a full-light cutting bed, if there is an automatic spray device, no shading is needed.
Leaf Bud Cutting: Cut a leaf with an axillary bud from the branch and insert it. This method is only used for propagating rare varieties.
Division: Generally before or after Qingming, dig out the plant, separate it naturally with roots, and plant it in another pot.
To make chrysanthemums grow strong, to make “ten brocades” or large upright chrysanthemums, you can use Artemisia annua or Artemisia argyi as rootstock for grafting.
Collect wormwood seeds in late autumn, sow in a greenhouse in winter, or raise seedlings in a warm bed in March. When the seedlings are 3-4cm tall in late April, move them to pots or fields and graft them on sunny days.
This disease is prone to occur in July and August when there is a lot of rain. The fungus survives and spreads in the soil.
After the plant is infected, the fungus secretes toxic substances, destroys tissue cells and blocks conduits, causing the water supply to be blocked and quickly wilting and dying.
Prevention methods:
Fungal infection. From August to September to winter, it is most susceptible to infection when the humidity is high, the light is weak, the ventilation is poor, and the temperature difference between day and night is about 10°C.
The gray-white hyphae grow on the back of the new leaves of the upper tender branches and on the buds, forming a layer of frost, causing the flowers and leaves to deform, severely affecting the normal growth and ornamental effect of the plant.
Prevention method: Spray methyl tobujin or carbendazim in mid-August, once every half a month, and spray 3 to 4 times in a row.
A small red or red-yellow mite, usually lurking on the back of the leaf, sucking juice, causing the leaves to dry, yellow and die, often occurring in May-June.
Prevention method: Use 40% parathion and 80% dichlorvos 800-1000 times liquid, it is best to use trichlorfon 800 times liquid spray, which has a special effect.
The adult is a small white moth about 2mm. In May, it lays eggs on the leaves. After the larvae hatch, they immediately drill into the leaf flesh to eat. After eating the leaf flesh, they bore into a dry, winding tunnel.
When severe, there are four or five on each leaf, causing the whole leaf to wither and die. There are three or four generations a year, and there are still occurrences in October.
Prevention method: You can remove the damaged leaves in the early stage. Spray with parathion and other systemic insecticides for prevention and control in April-May.
The Ink Chrysanthemum possesses a simple elegance and dignified steadiness. The stems measure over a foot, with blooms about the size of a palm, a color of red tinged with purple, the purple hinting at black.
The flower heart is solid, the petals like silk, and the color is as ink. When you appreciate the charm of the Ink Chrysanthemum, you’ll feel content and relaxed, detached yet serene, unique in its rich flavor, crystal clear, enduringly vibrant, and as full-bodied as wine.
When it blends into your inner landscape, it coalesces into a natural elegance and exudes a pure character.
Moreover, this precious Ink Chrysanthemum contains a large amount of norepinephrine and neurohormones (known for their ability to constrict blood vessels, combat low blood pressure, and reduce tissue bleeding).
It also contains an array of common nutrients in varying concentrations, including vitamins (Vitamin A, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Niacin, Carotene, etc.) and the mineral potassium. These elements work together to balance oils and promote nutrient absorption.
Peggie was once a high school mathematics teacher, but she set aside her chalkboard and textbooks to follow her lifelong passion for flowers. After years of dedication and learning, she not only established a thriving flower shop but also founded this blog, “Flowers Library”. If you have any questions or wish to learn more about flowers, feel free to contact Peggie.
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