Osmanthus varieties<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe leaves are elliptical-lanceolate, dark green, leathery, and shiny. The average leaf length is 13.5 cm and width is 4.5 cm, with a length-width ratio of 3.5. The leaf surface is concave, typically with 10 to 12 pairs of neatly arranged lateral veins, and the lateral net veins are also quite clear. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The leaf edge has sparse, irregularly spaced, fine, sharp serrations covering 2\/3 or more than half of it, and it noticeably curls upwards. The leaf tip is long and pointed, the base is cuneate, and there is asymmetry on both sides. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The petiole continues from the upper part of the leaf, varying in length, with an average length of 1.0 cm, and is yellow-green in color.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The tree begins to flower in its fourth year, with its prime blooming period starting after 7 to 8 years of growth. It blooms once a year, typically during early to mid-September. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The flowers are golden yellow, abundant, and their fragrance is intensely sweet and long-lasting. Its most notable feature is that its petioles are significantly longer than those of any other Osmanthus variety.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
II. Living Habits<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
The ‘Changbingjingui’ grows rapidly, with a conspicuous apical dominance. One-year-old cuttings can reach a height of 0.8 to 1.2 meters and a ground diameter of 0.6 to 1.2 cm. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The main trunk of the seedling often grows longitudinally without branching, and each node retains its leaf without shedding. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Typically, autumn Osmanthus varieties only sprout once in spring each year, not sprouting during the summer and autumn, once they have entered the flowering stage. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
However, the ‘Changbingjingui’ is different, often extending its summer shoots based on the spring shoots, and then sprouting autumn and late-autumn shoots from the tip of the summer shoots. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The total length of the new shoots throughout the year can reach more than 1 meter. It also doesn’t require high amounts of water or fertilizer management.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
III. Reproduction Method<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Propagation is mainly through stem cuttings, ideally done between April and June. Prior to spring budding, select one-year-old branches to use as cuttings. These should be inserted into sand or peat soil. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cover the surface with a plastic film and place in a shaded area for nurturing. Roots should begin to form after the start of autumn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Stem Cutting Time. The best period for stem cuttings is from mid-May to late June (for autumn cuttings, mid-August to late September is ideal). Some regions believe that osmanthus sprouts new shoots in early spring, suggesting that stem cutting can be advanced to April. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
However, practical experience shows that although the woody degree of the cuttings is high at this time, the air and soil temperatures are relatively low, making root formation difficult and the cuttings prone to decay.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Selection and Treatment of Cuttings. Use the tender shoots that sprouted in the same year for stem cutting. To ensure robust and full cuttings, fertilize and water the parent tree during winter. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Apply quick-acting fertilizer 2-3 times one to two months before collecting the cuttings. If the spring is dry, make sure to water sufficiently. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Practice shows that full and well-structured branches easily form root primordia, root quickly, and have a high survival rate, while weak branches behave oppositely. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The length of the cuttings should be 8-10 centimeters. Cuttings should be quickly placed in a cool, ventilated indoor area and sprayed with water to maintain freshness. When trimming, retain 5-6 top leaves. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
To avoid overcrowding and leaf interlocking during insertion, leaves can be halved. Observations show that osmanthus cuttings mostly root at the nodes, less so in the internodes, so it’s best to leave 1-2 nodes in the soil. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the cutting end is right at a node, it is more conducive to rooting. Treating cuttings with naphthalene acetic acid is an effective measure to promote early and quick rooting in osmanthus. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Before insertion, a quick dip in 500 PPM naphthalene acetic acid can promote rooting 7-8 days earlier than untreated cuttings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Insert half of the cutting into the soil, spacing plants 6×10 centimeters apart, with 200 cuttings per square meter. If you move the cuttings out after rooting, treating the insertion bed as a transitional stage, you can increase the density to make full use of the plastic shed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The regenerative ability of osmanthus’s nutritional organs is the physiological basis for stem cutting propagation. Prior to rooting, osmanthus cuttings first form root primordia, then grow adventitious roots. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The rooting of cuttings is concentrated at the nodes, with a few in the cortex between nodes. Observations show on average, each plant produces 19 lateral roots, 13 of which root at the nodes and 6 root at the cortex between nodes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If there are two nodes rooting, the lower node has more roots than the upper one. Like other tree species, osmanthus forms callus tissue. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The callus tissue is located at the end of the cutting, forming a tumor-like protrusion between the cortex and the xylem, which forms 15-20 days after insertion. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If untreated with naphthalene acetic acid, the formation of callus tissue may be delayed. New roots start to grow about 7-10 days after the formation of callus tissue stabilizes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
IV. Disease and Pest Control<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Osmanthus trees are often susceptible to diseases such as anthracnose, brown spot disease, gray paste disease, withering spot disease, algal spot disease, sooty mold, and pests such as black spiny scale, shell scale insects, bagworms, spike moths, cicadas, and osmanthus leafhoppers. It is necessary to timely spray pesticides for prevention and control.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Brown Spot Disease<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nBrown spot disease, caused by fungi, affects leaves. Initially, yellow spots appear, developing into nearly circular or irregular spots of yellow-brown to gray-brown color. The diameter of the spots ranges from 2-10mm, with a yellow halo around the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Numerous black mold-like dots scatter on the top surface of the leaf, representing the fungal conidia and conidiophores. When these spots connect, they form larger spots causing the leaf to die, but they will not extend to the leaf veins. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This fungus spreads through wind, rain, and watering. It begins to grow in March, with the disease outbreak period from April to October, and the disease subsides after October. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
High temperature and high humidity favor the outbreak, and older leaves are more severely affected. Typically, the resistance of tangerine osmanthus is stronger than that of golden or silver osmanthus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Prevention methods:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nDuring winter, diseased plant residues and leaves should be removed and destroyed promptly. Diseased leaves of introduced seedlings should be pruned. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
When seedlings in heavily diseased areas are brought out of the nursery, a 1000-fold solution of potassium permanganate can be sprayed. For chemical prevention, refer to the treatment of osmanthus leaf wilt disease.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Strengthen water and fertilizer management, increase application of humic fertilizers and potash, enhance plant disease resistance. The growing environment should be well-ventilated and well-lit. During the disease period, avoid spraying or rain. Do not let the soil be waterlogged.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Control sucking pests such as shell scale insects and aphids timely. Before the end of autumn, spray twice with a 500-fold solution of 70% mancozeb-zinc; if an outbreak occurs, a 500-fold solution of 90% carbendazim or 50% polyoxin can be used. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
During the disease period, spray 1:2:100-200 lime Bordeaux mixture, or a 1000-1500-fold solution of 50% benomyl, or a 500-fold solution of zineb, or a 600-fold solution of 50% mancozeb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Leaf Wilt Disease<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nLeaf wilt disease, also known as withering spot disease, is a major disease of osmanthus. Leaf damage often starts from the tip or edge, with small light brown spots that later expand into circular or irregular shapes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sometimes the spots curl and crack. These spots can connect to cover 1\/3 to 1\/2 of the leaf, turning gray-brown with a green edge. In the later stage, small black dots appear on the spots. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The disease can occur all year round, causing large-scale leaf drying. The disease is more severe when temperatures are high and humidity is high, ventilation is poor, and plant growth is weak. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Generally, the disease outbreak is from July to November, spreading through wind and rain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Prevention methods:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nIn late autumn and early winter, thoroughly remove and incinerate or deeply bury diseased leaves to reduce the overwintering pathogens and effectively suppress the occurrence of the disease next year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For saplings to be transplanted or introduced, remove the diseased leaves and incinerate them. When necessary, spray the saplings with a 500-fold solution of 50% mancozeb wettable powder or a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate before leaving the nursery to sterilize and disinfect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Strengthen management, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, frequently loosen soil and remove weeds, prevent soil crusting or waterlogging, and water and spray timely in high-temperature and drought conditions to enhance the disease resistance of the osmanthus plant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In areas with severe disease, start spraying a 500-fold solution of 70% manganese zinc fungicide, or an 800-fold solution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, or a 1:2:100 lime Bordeaux mixture every half month from late June, for 3-4 consecutive times for good prevention results. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alternatively, spray a 5000-fold solution of 25% propiconazole emulsion with a 48-day interval.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Sooty Mold Disease<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nThis disease usually occurs in high-temperature, humid seasons and hot, humid, hidden, poorly ventilated environments. The main symptom is a layer of varying shades of gray-black powdery substance on the leaves and dry branches, sometimes even forming a black film. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This is caused by various fungi parasitizing the excretions of aphids, scale insects, and whiteflies when they suck and harm the osmanthus. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The gray-black sooty layer not only affects the ornamental value of the osmanthus plant but also affects the photosynthesis of the leaves, leading to poor plant growth and premature yellowing and wilting of infected leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Prevention methods:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nStrengthen the shaping and pruning of osmanthus plants to ensure ventilation and light penetration within the plant and promote good plant growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
When aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, and other insects sucking and harming the osmanthus are detected, carry out effective prevention and control measures promptly to eliminate them. Regularly spray and wash the leaves of potted plants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In the early stages of the disease, spray the branches and leaves with a 500-fold solution of 50% carbendazim suspension, or an 800-fold solution of 50% mancozeb wettable powder, or a 500-fold solution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder for good prevention results.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Iron Chlorosis<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nThis disease is iron chlorosis, caused by a pH imbalance or alkaline soil, and incomplete removal of construction debris from the soil, which leads to the presence of iron in the soil in the form of insoluble iron hydroxide, which cannot be absorbed by the roots of the osmanthus plant, resulting in iron deficiency in the osmanthus. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Mild iron deficiency is manifested by yellowing between the veins of young leaves, with the vein tissues remaining green. In severe iron deficiency, all old and new leaves turn yellow, young leaves slowly stop growing, some old leaves develop yellow-brown spots, and the plant cannot grow and bloom normally, seriously affecting the ornamental effect and flower harvest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Prevention methods:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nIn cases of mild iron deficiency, apply a 0.5% solution of ferrous sulfate to the roots and spray a 0.2% solution of ferrous sulfate on the leaf surface.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In severe iron deficiency, apply 20-40 grams of chelated iron [F-EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid ferric)] to the soil around the roots of each osmanthus plant (including potted osmanthus), and spray a 0.1% solution of chelated iron on the leaf surface.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In the spring new shoot growth season, spray a 0.2% solution of ferrous sulfate on the leaf surface every half month. When preparing potted culture soil, adjust its pH value to below 6.5 with a 0.5% solution of ferrous sulfate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dry rot disease<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nThis primarily occurs in larger, newly transplanted osmanthus trees. In landscaping or large-scale osmanthus transplantation, the tree’s trunk or large branches can be seriously damaged due to accidental bumps during excavation, scratches during long-distance transportation, strapping injuries during hoisting, or other accidental impacts. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If these injuries are not properly protected in time, they can be exposed to rainwater or contaminated water, leading to infections from fungi (such as wood rot fungi) and bacteria (such as wild rod bacteria in the soil). <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This can cause rotting at the injury site, exposure of the woody part, or tumor formation, leading to poor plant growth, extensive leaf shedding, branch death, and even the death of the entire osmanthus tree in severe cases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Prevention Methods:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nFor small injuries on the trunk or large branches, wound healing agents should be applied promptly;<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For minor injuries that have started to rot locally or in small amounts, the wound area should be cleaned until the fresh woody and cambium parts are exposed. Then, a wound healing agent should be applied to the fresh wound to promote faster healing;<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For old, large wounds on the trunk where the cambium has been damaged and the woody part has been exposed for many years, the rotten exposed woody part should be cleaned. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The wound should be regularly treated with a stone sulfur compound for preservation or quickly coated with a two-component “marble glue” after color adjustment. This will provide better protection;<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For large osmanthus plants with hollowed trunks, the rotten parts should be completely removed first, making sure not to damage the isolation layer between the rotten and unrotten wood. The hollow space should then be filled with polyurethane foam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
V.Value and Other<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
The Long-stem Golden Osmanthus is a straight, smooth-barked tree with an umbrella-shaped crown, presenting an impressive stature. It can be planted for garden viewing or street greening.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
The Osmanthus fragrans cv. ‘Changbingjingui’, a type of evergreen tree, is an incredibly rare variety among the autumn osmanthus species. This variety grows rapidly, and its prime blooming period begins after 7 to 8 years of growth. It blossoms once a year, typically during early to mid-September, producing an abundant amount of golden yellow flowers. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12083,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_breakdance_hide_in_design_set":false,"_breakdance_tags":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10360","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-species-and-types"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10360","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10360"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10360\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/12083"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10360"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10360"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/flowerslib.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10360"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}