Tokyo Cerasus yedoensis is a deciduous tree that can grow to a height of 4-16 meters. It has gray bark, with light purple-brown twigs that are hairless. The young branches are green and sparsely covered in soft hairs.
The winter buds are oval-shaped and hairless. The elliptic-ovate or inverted-ovate leaves are dark green on the upper surface and light green on the lower surface. They are sparsely covered in soft hairs along the veins.
The flowers are arranged in an umbel-like inflorescence, with a very short peduncle. Each inflorescence bears 3-4 flowers, with the first leaf opening. The flowers have a diameter of 3-3.5 centimeters and can be either white or pink.
The petals are oval-ovate with a slightly concave apex and a two-lobed entire margin. There are approximately 32 stamens, shorter than the petals. The base of the style is sparsely covered in soft hairs.
The fruit is nearly spherical, measuring 0.7-1 centimeter in diameter. It is black and slightly ribbed on the surface. The flowering period is in April, and the fruiting period is in May.
Tokyo Cherry Blossom is a deciduous tree that can grow to a height of 4-16 meters. It has gray bark. The twigs are light purple-brown and hairless, while the young branches are green and sparsely covered in soft hairs.
The winter buds are oval-shaped and hairless. The leaves are elliptic-ovate or inverted-ovate, measuring 5-12 centimeters in length and 2.5-7 centimeters in width.
They have a gradually pointed or abruptly tapering apex, a rounded or sometimes wedge-shaped base, and sharp serrations along the edges. The serrations taper to a sharp point and have small glands.
The upper surface of the leaves is dark green and hairless, while the lower surface is light green and sparsely covered in soft hairs. There are 7-10 pairs of lateral veins. The petioles are 1.3-1.5 centimeters long and densely covered in hairs.
They have 1-2 glands at the apex or sometimes no glands. The stipules are lanceolate, with lobed glandular teeth, and they fall off early.
The flowers are arranged in an umbel-like inflorescence, with a very short peduncle. Each inflorescence bears 3-4 flowers, with the first leaf opening. The flowers have a diameter of 3-3.5 centimeters.
The bracts are brown, oval-ovate, measuring 6-7 millimeters in length and 4-5 millimeters in width. They are sparsely covered in soft hairs on both sides. The sepals are brown, spoon-shaped, measuring approximately 5 millimeters in length and 2-3 millimeters in width.
They have glandular margins. The flower stalks are 2-2.5 centimeters long and covered in short hairs. The calyx tube is tubular, measuring 7-8 millimeters in length and approximately 3 millimeters in width.
It is sparsely covered in soft hairs. The calyx lobes are triangular-ovate, measuring approximately 5 millimeters in length, with a gradually pointed apex and glandular teeth along the edges.
The petals are white or pink, oval-ovate, with a slightly concave apex and a two-lobed entire margin. There are approximately 32 stamens, shorter than the petals. The base of the style is sparsely covered in soft hairs.
The fruit is nearly spherical, measuring 0.7-1 centimeter in diameter. It is black and slightly ribbed on the surface. The flowering period is in April, and the fruiting period is in May.
Originally from Japan. Many regions at the same latitude as Japan in the northern hemisphere cultivate this plant. There are many horticultural varieties available for ornamental purposes.
Cherry trees prefer sunlight, warmth, moisture, and fertile soil. They thrive in climates with an average annual temperature of 10-12°C, an annual precipitation of 600-700 millimeters, and an annual sunshine duration of 2600-2800 hours or more.
They require a minimum of 150-200 days with an average daily temperature above 10°C and can tolerate winter temperatures as low as -20°C without significant damage.
In areas prone to frost, it is advisable to choose cherry orchards located on northwest-facing slopes with slow temperature increase in spring and good air circulation.
Considering that cherry trees have shallow root systems and are susceptible to wind damage, it is recommended to plant them in areas protected from strong winds.
The ideal soil for cultivation is sandy loam or gravelly loam, which is loose, deep, well-drained, and has good water retention capacity. Cherry trees do not tolerate heavy, clayey soils, as their shallow root systems make them susceptible to drought, waterlogging, and wind damage.
They are also sensitive to soil salinity, preferring a pH value of 5.6-7, which makes them unsuitable for cultivation in saline-alkali areas.
After harvesting cherries, the fruit skin and flesh are cut to remove the pit. The pit is then washed with water to remove any remaining flesh, and then dried in a cool place for 1-2 days before sowing.
The pits are directly sown in a shallow tray, and germination occurs after approximately 10-30 days. When the seedlings reach a height of 5-10 centimeters, they can be transplanted into plastic pots.
Cherry seeds are easy to germinate, but the germination is not uniform, and some plants produce seeds with a lack of viable embryos, resulting in a germination rate of less than 30%. The seedling method takes longer to produce fruits and there is a large variation in quality between seedlings.
Cultivating cherry trees through sowing requires attention to preventing the seeds from drying out. It is best to sow them immediately after harvesting or store them in moist sand for sowing in the following spring.
Grafting can be done using seedlings from cherry or wild cherry as the rootstock. Grafting can be done by chip budding in late March or bud grafting in late August. After successful grafting, it takes 3 to 4 years of cultivation before the trees can be planted in the nursery.
If there are viable cherry seeds after harvesting, they should be sown immediately and not allowed to dry out. Seeds that are dormant or stored in sand can be used for sowing the following spring to cultivate seedlings for grafting.
During the spring and summer growing season, select semi-mature and vigorous branches with a diameter of 0.7-1.2 centimeters. Each cutting should be about 15-20 centimeters long with 4-6 attached leaves.
River sand, vermiculite, peat soil, or a mixture of several mediums are all suitable for use as the rooting bed. It is important to keep the cuttings moist and shaded.
Roots will develop after approximately 1.5-2 months, and the cuttings can be transplanted once the root system is well-established. When properly managed, the survival rate of cuttings can reach 60-90%.
Cutting is a simple and highly successful method. Use young and tender branches for summer cuttings. NAA treatment can be used for cutting, and the rooting bed should have good shading, moisture retention, and ventilation for a higher survival rate.
Select branches that are at least two years old. Strip the bark in a ring-like pattern near the base of the branch (damaging the bark to promote root formation above the damaged area).
Then, wrap moist sphagnum moss around the wounded area and seal it in a transparent plastic bag, tying the upper and lower ends together. Once roots have formed, cut the branch below the layered area and plant it in a pot as a new plant.
This method is usually done during the vigorous growth period of cherries (late spring to early summer) when root formation is easier. Although rooting is relatively easy, there can be significant differences in the success rate among different varieties.
Due to the fact that most cherry varieties do not bear fruit, grafting can be done using cherry or wild cherry as the rootstock. Chip budding in late March or bud grafting in late August are both suitable methods.
After successful grafting, it takes 3-4 years of cultivation before the trees can be planted in the nursery. Cherry trees can also be top-grafted by using scions and whip grafting them onto the rootstock.
The grafted area should be tightly wrapped with plastic bags for insulation and protection. The survival rate is high, and this method can be used to replace with new varieties.
If aphids gather on the leaves and young shoots and suck their sap, the affected leaves will curl into cylindrical tubes along the edges. Multiple generations occur in a year, with eggs overwintering in the buds, cracks in the branches, and pruning wounds.
In early April of the following year, the overwintered eggs hatch and undergo parthenogenesis from spring to autumn, with the peak of damage occurring in late June. Sexual aphids appear in October and November, laying eggs before overwintering in the egg stage.
Control methods: Referring to aphids on Chrysanthemums, it is recommended to use a spray method that thoroughly covers the branches and leaf buds to eliminate the pests completely and prevent future infestations.
Red Spider Mite
This pest inserts its mouthparts into the leaves to suck the sap, resulting in the destruction of chlorophyll. The leaves display gray-yellow spots or patches, turn orange, and may even fall off completely.
Control methods: If only a few leaves are affected, they can be removed. If a significant number of leaves are affected, early spraying is necessary. Commonly used pesticides include Kelimite, Trichlorfon, Malathion, Carbaryl, and Fenitrothion.
The Tokyo Cherry Blossom is a famous tree species for early spring viewing. When in bloom, the tree is covered in brilliant flowers. However, the flowering period is short, lasting only about a week before the flowers wither.
It is suitable for planting on slopes, in courtyards, in front of buildings, and along garden paths. This species is widely cultivated in Japan and is also the most imported variety in China. It blooms early, with leaves appearing before the flowers.
The flowers are densely packed and pink in color. They can be planted individually or in groups in courtyards, parks, lawns, lakesides, residential areas, etc. From a distance, they resemble a colorful cloud, adding splendor and beauty.
They can also be planted in rows or combined with other flowering shrubs to create a well-designed landscape along both sides of roads or planted in dedicated gardens.
Peggie was once a high school mathematics teacher, but she set aside her chalkboard and textbooks to follow her lifelong passion for flowers. After years of dedication and learning, she not only established a thriving flower shop but also founded this blog, “Flowers Library”. If you have any questions or wish to learn more about flowers, feel free to contact Peggie.
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