600+ Types of Flowers A To Z (With Names and Pictures)
Types Of Flowers By Names (A-Z) Types Of Flowers By Color Types Of Flowers By Season Types Of Flowers By Blooming Time 600+ Types of Flowers No. Flower Name No.…
Anthurium andraeanum is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant from the Araceae family. It has short stems and green, leather-like, entire-margin leaves that are elongated, heart-shaped or ovate-heart-shaped, which grow out from the base.
The slender leaf stalks, spathe, and spadix are notable features. The spathe is flat, leathery, and has a waxy luster, usually in hues of orange-red or scarlet. The yellow, fleshy spadix can bloom throughout the year.
The flamingo flower originates from the tropical rainforest regions of Costa Rica and Colombia. It often grows epiphytically on trees, sometimes on rocks, or directly on the ground. It thrives in warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments, and dislikes direct sunlight.
The flamingo flower is renowned for its unique and beautiful form. It has a long flowering period and is suitable for pot cultivation, cut flowers, or as a decorative plant in shaded garden spots.
This Araceae family member is a perennial evergreen herb. It has short stems and the leaves, which are green, leathery and entire-margin, are elongated, heart-shaped or ovate-heart-shaped, and they grow out from the base. The slender leaf stalks add to its features.
The spathe is flat, ovate-heart-shaped, leathery, and has a waxy luster. It is usually in hues of orange-red or scarlet. The yellow, fleshy spadix, which is 5-7cm long, can bloom all year round.
The flamingo flower is indigenous to the tropical rainforest regions of Costa Rica and Colombia. It often grows epiphytically on trees, sometimes on rocks, and can also grow directly on the ground.
Native to the humid, semi-shaded valleys of the South American rainforest, through introduction, improvement and cultivation in regulated light, temperature, and watering system greenhouses, it is now widely cultivated in Europe, Asia, and Africa.
The flamingo flower is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. It thrives in warm, humid semi-shade environments that have good drainage. It is sensitive to drought and strong sunlight.
The optimal day temperature for growth is 26-32°C, and the night temperature is 21-32°C. It can tolerate a maximum temperature of 35°C and a minimum of 14°C.
The primary time for division is during the cool and humid spring season, although it can also be done in the cool autumn weather. Avoid division during the hot summer or dry and cold seasons.
When dividing, care should be taken not to harm the mother plant. Too large, too tight, or too weak lateral buds should not be divided. The main goal is to separate robust lateral buds that are easy to detach from the mother plant and have at least two major root systems.
When transplanting seedlings, use your hands to evenly exert force, separating the lateral buds from the mother plant at the underground stem bud location. If it’s difficult to separate, use a sharp, disinfected blade to cut it open at the bud.
Before dividing a cut flower bud, remove the soil layer, pay attention to the root distribution and the underground stem bud location, carefully cut open the bud location, and then remove the lateral bud.
Once the cut lateral bud’s wound has slightly dried, pseudo-plant it in a shady place to promote rooting and growth recovery.
When planting, ensure the root system is spread out and the plant is upright, providing support if necessary. Do not water immediately after planting, instead, spray water onto the leaf surface to maintain humidity, then water or apply diluted fertilizer as needed after two days.
For upright stemmed varieties of Candelabra flowers, propagation can be done by cutting. Cut 1-2 stem nodes with 3-4 leaves as cuttings, insert them into sphagnum moss, and transplant them into a pot after new roots have sprouted.
Seeding is generally only used in breeding. Candelabra flowers have poor natural pollination, and artificial pollination is needed to obtain seeds. After the seeds mature, they should be sown immediately.
Candelabra seeds are large and are sown in indoor pots. The germination temperature is 25°C-28°C, and they will germinate 20-25 days after sowing. Seedlings need to be cultivated for 3-4 years before they can flower.
The advantages of conventional propagation methods are simplicity, low cost, and slow propagation speed, which meets the needs of promoting new varieties.
However, propagated plants are susceptible to disease infections, which accumulate in the plant body, leading to species degradation or even death.
The apical and stem segments, young leaves, and petioles of Candelabra flowers can all be used as explants for tissue culture.
Rinse the explants with running water, soak in 75% alcohol for about 20-30 seconds, rinse with sterile water, and then sterilize with 0.1% mercuric chloride for 8-10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with sterile water to remove the sterilization liquid.
Dry the surface with sterile filter paper, cut into suitable sizes, and inoculate for cultivation. Different explants induce regeneration in different ways.
Cultivation with apical buds or buds can directly induce the formation of indeterminate buds or lateral buds, while leaf, petiole, or stem segment cultures first induce callus tissue, which then differentiates to form buds or somatic embryos.
The culture medium uses MS, 1/2MS or modified MS. The modified MS culture medium reduces the amount of ammonium nitrate in the MS culture medium, which has a good induction effect on Candelabra flowers.
The culture medium is supplemented with 30 grams/liter of sucrose, 8-10 grams of agar as a gelling agent, with a pH of 5.8. Hormone regulation is crucial, as Candelabra flowers are sensitive to hormones and have a noticeable cumulative effect.
Bud induction cultivation can use 6-BA1-3 milligrams/liter, combined with NAA0.1-0.2 milligrams/liter.
When cultivating with leaves, first use 6-BA1.0 milligrams/liter, 4-D0.1 milligrams/liter to induce the formation of callus tissue, and then transfer to a differentiation culture medium containing 6-BA1.0 milligrams/liter + NAA0.1 milligrams/liter to induce bud formation.
In the first few days after inoculation, provide appropriate shading and supplement with 8-10 hours of light from a fluorescent lamp at a temperature of 25°C.
After approximately 45 days of cultivation, once new buds or healed tissues have emerged, continue the cultivation in another container.
Following 40-50 days of proliferation cultivation, the sterilized culture system will be moved to another container to encourage growth and bud formation.
The culture medium can be MS or modified MS+30g/L of sucrose+7g/L of agar+6-BA0.5-1mg/L+NAA0.5mg/L, with one generation cultivated approximately every 30 days. The cultivation conditions are the same as before.
During the propagation cultivation process, when the seedlings have grown to a certain quantity, the hormone concentration can be reduced to 6-BA0.1-0.2mg/L. As the seedlings grow larger and stronger, they will begin to form roots.
After 1-2 generations of strong seedling cultivation, the addition of IBA0.1mg/L or NAA0.1mg/L to the culture medium will promote root formation.
After 7-10 days of cultivation on the rooting medium, the base will begin to form roots, gradually forming a root system. After approximately 30-40 days, the seedlings will grow to a height of 3-4 cm.
During this period, supplementing with light can make the seedlings more robust. For transplantation and greenhouse seedling raising, the seedlings can be removed and the culture medium washed off with water before transplantation.
The transplantation substrate can be a mixture of 3 parts peat, 1 part perlite, and 1 part coconut husk, or river sand, broken flower soil, and so forth. After planting, thoroughly drench with an 800-1000 times dilution of bactericidal solution and spray with water to retain moisture.
In the early stages of transplantation, provide moderate shading. Once the seedlings are established, spray with foliar fertilizer every 7-10 days to promote growth.
Regularly spray with fungicides such as Carbendazim and bactericidal solution to protect the seedlings from disease. During the seedling stage, the leaves and stems are tender and often susceptible to pests such as tiger beetles and snails, so preventive measures should be taken.
For the successful cultivation of potted Primula, it’s crucial to use a substrate with good drainage. For large-scale production, a composite substrate of peat, perlite, and sand is used in the ratio of 1 cubic meter of peat to 4-5 kg of perlite to 0.15 cubic meter of sand.
The pH value should be maintained between 5.5 and 6.5. The optimal growth temperature is between 20-30°C, with a maximum temperature not exceeding 35°C.
The minimum temperature is 14°C, with potential frost damage if it drops below 10°C. The ideal relative humidity is 70%-80%, and should not be below 50% as maintaining a high air humidity is key to successful Primula cultivation.
Therefore, water should be sprayed on the leaves several times throughout the year.
Primula is not tolerant to strong light and should be cultivated under appropriate shading throughout the year, specifically in a greenhouse with protective facilities.
Appropriate shading should be applied in spring, summer, and autumn, with a 70% shading requirement in summer.
Direct sunlight can cause the leaf temperature to be higher than the ambient temperature, leading to leaf burn, leaf scorch, flower bud discoloration and slowed leaf growth.
The pot specification varies at different stages of growth. In general, the seedling stage is completed at the nursery, and when purchased, the Primula seedlings are medium-sized (approximately 15 cm).
Therefore, when potting, a one-time use of 160×150 mm red plastic pots can be chosen. The cultivation substrate must have strong water and fertilizer retention, good permeability, no water accumulation, non-toxic, and capable of securing the plant.
Before planting, the substrate must be thoroughly sterilized to kill pests and maintain normal growth. Primula is a shade-loving plant, and when planted, a shade net with 75% shading capability is needed to prevent excessive light exposure.
Planting two plants together is better than a single one. An important point when potting is to expose the growth point of the plant’s heart above the substrate level, while avoiding plant contamination with the substrate.
When potting, first fill the bottom of the pot with 4-5 cm of granular broken stone, then add 2-3 cm of cultivation soil, and place the plant upright in the center of the pot so that the root system can fully spread.
Finally, fill with cultivation soil to 2-3 cm from the pot surface, but the growth point and small leaves at the base of the plant should be exposed. After planting, a fungicide must be sprayed promptly to prevent the occurrence of downy mildew and gray mold.
The Wax Begonia is a flower species sensitive to salinity. Therefore, the pH value of the substrate should be controlled between 5.2 and 6.1, which is optimal for the growth of the Wax Begonia.
If the pH value is too low, the flower stem will become short, devaluing its ornamental appeal. Tap water is suitable for planting Wax Begonia, but it is expensive; natural rainwater is the best water source for cultivating Wax Begonia.
The water requirements of potted Wax Begonia vary at different stages of growth. During the seedling stage, due to the weak root system of the plant distributed shallowly in the substrate, it is not drought tolerant.
It should be sprayed with water 2-3 times a day and the substrate should be kept moist to promote early and multiple new roots, while monitoring the dryness and humidity of the substrate surface.
During the medium and large seedling stages, the plant grows quickly and requires more water, thus sufficient water supply is a must.
During blooming, watering should be moderately reduced and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be increased to promote flowering.
However, the key to successful commercial cultivation of Wax Begonia is to maintain a relatively high air humidity. Especially during the hot season, the relative humidity inside the greenhouse can be increased through a sprinkler system and atomizing system.
But remember not to spray the leaves in the evening and ensure that there are no water droplets on the leaf surface at night to avoid leaf scorch, leaf tip burn, and flower bud deformity due to high temperatures.
In the watering process, the plant should be watered alternately between dry and wet periods. Don’t water when the plant is seriously lacking water as this will affect its normal growth.
During the hot season, watering is usually done every 2-3 days, and the sprinkler system is used to spray water on the leaf surface at noon to increase the indoor relative humidity.
In the cold season, watering should be done between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. to avoid freezing the root system.
According to Dutch cultivation experience, root fertilization for Wax Begonia is much more effective than foliar topdressing. This is because the surface of Wax Begonia leaves has a layer of wax that doesn’t absorb fertilizer well.
The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of regularity and quantification. In autumn, generally, a cycle is 3-4 days.
If the temperature is high, depending on the dryness and humidity of the substrate, fertilizer can be applied every 2-3 days; in summer, fertilizer can be applied every 2 days, and more water can be given when the temperature is high; in autumn, fertilizer is generally applied every 5-7 days.
The timing of fertilizing varies with the climate. Generally, it should be applied before 5 p.m. from 8 a.m.; in winter or early spring, it should be done before 4 p.m. from 9 a.m.
Each fertilization must be operated by a specialist, strictly controlling the dilution concentration and application amount of the liquid fertilizer (mother solution).
The pH value of the diluted liquid fertilizer should be adjusted to about 5.7, and applied when the EC value is 1.2ms/cm.
In addition, two hours after the application of liquid fertilizer, the plant leaves should be sprayed with water using a sprinkler system to wash off the fertilizer residue on the leaves, keep the leaf surface clean and prevent algae growth.
The growth cycle of the wax flower follows a pattern of “leaf-flower-leaf-flower”. The inflorescence forms in the axil of each leaf, which results in an equal yield of flowers and leaves.
The most significant factor affecting this yield is light exposure. If there is insufficient light, the plant produces fewer assimilates due to the impact on photosynthesis; if the light is too intense, some leaves of the plant may overheat, potentially causing discoloration, burns, or withering.
Therefore, successful light management directly influences the amount of assimilates produced by the wax flower and the quality of the end product. To prevent bud discoloration or burns, shading protection is essential.
Inside a greenhouse, light exposure for wax flowers can be regulated with a movable shading net. On sunny days, 75% of the light should be blocked, with the ideal greenhouse light exposure being around 20,000 Lux.
The maximum light intensity should not persistently exceed 25,000 Lux. Shading is unnecessary in the morning, evening, or on cloudy/rainy days. However, the light requirements for wax flowers vary at different growth stages.
For instance, during the vegetative growth stage (when buds are usually removed), higher light exposure is needed to promote growth.
During flowering, the light exposure can be adjusted to 10,000 to 15,000 Lux using the movable shading net to prevent bud discoloration and maintain aesthetic appeal.
The temperature requirements for wax flower growth largely depend on other climatic conditions, with the relationship between temperature and light exposure being particularly important.
Generally, on cloudy days, the temperature should be 18-20°C, and humidity should range between 70%-80%. On sunny days, the temperature should be 20-28°C, with around 70% humidity. In summary, the temperature should be kept below 30°C, and humidity should be above 50%.
During the hot season, stronger light exposure results in higher indoor temperatures. At such times, the relative humidity of the greenhouse air can be increased through the use of a sprinkler or humidification system, while ensuring the plants don’t get too wet at night to reduce the risk of disease.
Ventilation equipment can also be used to decrease indoor humidity and prevent bud failure or deformities caused by high temperatures. During the cold winter months, when the indoor day and night temperatures drop below 15°C, heating is necessary.
If the temperature falls below 13°C, a heater is needed to prevent frost damage and ensure safe overwintering of the plants.
Candle flowers require relatively high temperatures and considerable humidity for growth, so they thrive in warm, humid conditions. Temperature and humidity are closely related.
When the temperature is below 20°C, maintaining the natural indoor environment is sufficient. However, when the temperature exceeds 28°C, a sprinkler or misting system must be used to increase the relative humidity of the indoor air, creating a warm and humid growth environment for the candle flowers.
In winter, even if the greenhouse temperature is high, it is not advisable to excessively reduce the temperature and maintain humidity, as the dampness of plant leaves at night can actually reduce their cold resistance, making them prone to frost damage and hindering safe overwintering.
After a period of cultivation and management, the substrate of candle flowers will undergo biological degradation and salinization, resulting in a decrease in substrate pH and an increase in EC, thereby affecting the root system’s ability to absorb nutrients and water.
Therefore, the pH and EC of the substrate must be regularly measured, and the ratio of various nutrients must be adjusted based on these measurements, to promote the plant’s absorption of nutrients and water.
Most candle flowers naturally sprout many small suckers at the root, which compete for nutrients with the parent plant, keeping the plant in a juvenile state and affecting its form. The removal of suckers can start early to minimize damage to the parent plant.
The primary diseases of the Waxflower include bacterial wilt, root rot, and leaf spot disease. Among these, bacterial wilt is destructive and should be given priority in prevention and treatment.
This disease usually starts on the leaves and flowers, with symptoms including brown spots surrounded by yellowish areas. Water-stained spots can be seen in the tissues during the transition from healthy to infected.
The speed of wilt disease spread and damage is fast, primarily affecting the leaves. When the infection becomes systemic, it can kill the entire plant. There is no effective medicine available to treat bacterial wilt.
Therefore, once symptoms appear, decisive measures must be taken to completely destroy the diseased and nearby plants, and extremely strict preventive measures should be implemented for the remaining plants.
Root rot and leaf spot disease of the Waxflower are mostly caused by fungal infections. The use of fungicides can achieve good prevention and treatment results. Combined with careful water and fertilizer management, infected plants can generally recover and grow robustly.
The Waxflower is beautiful in both flower and leaf, and has a long blooming period, making it a high-quality cut flower material.
Arrangements primarily featuring red Waxflowers, complemented by small chrysanthemums, celosia, ginger lilies, and variegated pittosporum, have a strong southern countryside appeal.
If the Waxflower is used as the main flower, basket arrangements with Anthurium, Clivia, lilies, and Asparagus ferns make exceptionally beautiful holiday gifts.
Waxflowers can absorb human waste gases (such as ammonia and acetone) and various harmful gases remaining after decoration (like formaldehyde), while also maintaining air humidity to prevent nasal mucosa from drying out.
Peggie was once a high school mathematics teacher, but she set aside her chalkboard and textbooks to follow her lifelong passion for flowers. After years of dedication and learning, she not only established a thriving flower shop but also founded this blog, “Flowers Library”. If you have any questions or wish to learn more about flowers, feel free to contact Peggie.
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